66
	HORTICULTURE.
	steady,	uniform	degree	of	moisture	at	the	roots;
	and	shading,	or	planting	the	cuttings	if	in	the
	open	air	in	a	shady	situation,	prevents	the	bad
	effects	of	excess	of	light.	The	only	method	of
	regulating	the	heat	is	by	double	or	single	cover-
	ings	of	glass	or	mats,	or	both.	A	hand-glass
	placed	over	a	bell-glass	will	preserve,	in	a	shady
	situation,	a	very	constant	degree	of	heat.
	What	the	degree	of	heat	ought	to	be	is	decided
	by	the	degree	-of	heat	requisite	for	the	mother
	plant.	Most	species	t,f	the	erica,	dahlia,	and
	geranium,	strike	better	rhen	supplied	with	rather
	more	heat	than	is	requisite	for	the	growth	of	these
	plants	in	green-houses.	The	myrtle	tribe	and
	camellias	require	rather	less:	and	in	general	a
	lesser	portion	of	heat,	and	of	everything	else	pro-
	er	for	plants,	in	their	rooted	and	growing	state,
	i	the	safest.
	To	sow	Seeds	with	Advantage.
	This	is	the	first	operation	of	rearing.	Where
	seeds	are	deposited	singly,	as	in	rows	of	beans	or
	large	nuts,	they	are	said	to	be	planted;	where
	dropped	in	numbers	together,	to	be	sown.	The
	operation	of	sowing	is	either	performed	in	drills,
	patches	or	broadcast.	Drills	are	small	excavations
	formed	with	the	draw-hoe,	generally	in	straight
	lines	parallel	to	each	other,	and	in	depth	and
	distance	apart	varying	according	to	the	size	of
	the	seeds.	In	these	drills	the	seeds	are	strewed
	from	the	hand	of	the	operator,	who,	taking	a
	small	quantity	in	the	palin	of	his	hand	and	fin-
	gers,	regulates	its	emission	by	the	thumb.	Some
	seeds	are	very	thinly	sown,	as	the	pea	and	spinach;
	others	thick,	as	the	cress	and	small	salading.
	Patches	are	small	circular	excavations	made
	with	the	trowel	;	in	these	seeds	are	either	sown	or
	planted,	thicker	or	thinner,	and	covered	more	or
	less,	according	to	their	natures.	This	is	the	mode
	adopted	in	sowing	in	pots,	and	generally	in	flower
	borders.
	In	broadcast	sowing	the	operator	scatters	the
	seed	over	a	c^	siderable	breadth	of	surface,	pre-
	viously	prepared	by	digging,	or	otherwise	being
	minutely	pulverized.	The	seed	is	taken	up	in
	portions	in	the	hand	and	dispersed	by	a	horizon-
	tal	movement	of	the	arm	to	the	extent	of	a	semi-
	circle,	opening	the	hand	at	the	same	time	and
	scattering	the	seeds	in	the	air	so	that	they	may	fall
	as	equally	as	possible	over	the	breadth	taken	in
	by	the	sower	at	once,	and	which	is	generally	six
	feet	that	being	the	diameter	of	the	circle	in
	which	his	hand	moves	through	half	the	circum-
	ference.	In	sowing	broadcast	on	beds	and	narrow
	strips	or	borders,	the	seeds	are	dispersed	between
	the	thumb	and	fingers	by	horizontal	movements
	of	the	hand	in	segments	of	smaller	circles.
	Dry	weather	is	essentially	requisite	for	sowing,
	and	more	especially	for	the	operation	of	covering
	in	the	seed,	which	in	broadcast	sowing	is	done	by
	treading	or	gently	rolling	the	surface,	and	then
	raking	it;	and	in	drill-sowing	by	treading	in	the
	larger	seeds,	as	peas,	and	covering	with	the	rake	;
	smaller	seeds,	sown	in	drills,	are	covered	with	the
	same	implement	without	treading.
	To	plant	Shrubs	and	Trees.
	Planting,	as	applied	to	seeds	or	seed-like	roots,
	as	potatoes,	bulbs,	etc.,	is	most	frequently	per-
	formed	in	drills	or	in	separate	holes	made	with
	the	dibbler	;	in	these	the	seed	or	bulb	is	dropped
	from	the	ha,nd,	and	covered	with	or	without	tread-
	ijig,	according	to	its	nature.	Sometimes	planting
	k)	performed	in	patches,	as	in	pots	or	borders,	in
	which	case	the	trowel	is	the	chief	instrument	used.
	Quincunx	is	a	mode	of	planting	in	rows,	by
	which	the	plants	in	the	one	row	are	always	op-
	posed	to	the	blanks	in	the	other,	so	that	when
	plot	of	ground	is	planted	in	this	way	the	plants
	appear	in	rows	in	four	directions.
	Planting,	as	applied	to	plants	already	originated,
	consists	generally	in	inserting	them	in	the	soil	of
	the	same	depth,	and	in	the	same	position	as	they
	were	before	removal,	but	with	various	exceptions.
	The	principal	object	is	to	preserve	the	fibrous
	roots	entire,	to	distribute	them	equally	around	the
	stem	among	the	mould	or	finer	soil,	and	to	pro-
	serve	the	plant	upright.	The	plant	should	not	be
	planted	deeper	than	it	stood	in	the	soil	before	re-
	moval,	and	commonly	the	same	side	should	be
	kept	towards	the	sun.	Planting	should	as	much
	as	possible	be	accompanied	by	abundant	water-
	ing,	in	order	to*	consolidate	the	soil	about	the
	roots	;	and	where	the	soil	is	dry,	or	not	a	stiff	clay,
	it	may	be	performed	in	the	beginning	of	wet
	weather,	in	gardens;	and	in	forest	planting,	on
	dry	soils,	in	all	open	weather	during	autumn,
	winter	and	spring.
	To	water	Gardens.
	Watering	becomes	requisite	in	gardens	for	va-
	rious	purposes,	as	aliment	to	plants	in	a	growing
	state,	as	support	to	newly-transplanted	plants,
	for	keeping	under	insects,	and	keeping	clean	the
	leaves	of	vegetables.	One	general	rule	must	be
	ever	kept	in	mind	during	the	employment	of	water
	in	a	garden,	that	is,	never	to	water	the	top	or
	leaves	of	a	plant	when	the	sun	shines.	All	water-
	ing	should	be	carried	on	in	the	evening	or	early
	in	the	morning,	unless	it	be	confined	to	watering
	the	roots,	in	which	case	transplanted	plants,	and
	others	in	a	growing	state,	may	be	watered	at	any
	time;	and	if	they	are	shaded	from	the	sun,	they
	may	also	be	watered	over	their	tops.	Watering
	over	the	tops	is	performed	with	the	rose,	or	dis-
	penser	attached	to	the	spout	of	the	watering-pot,
	or	by	the	syringe	or	engine.	Watering	the	roota
	is	best	done	with	the	rose;	but	in	the	case	of
	watering	pots	in	haste,	and	where	the	earth	is
	hardened,	it	is	done	with	the	naked	spout.	In
	new-laid	turf,	or	lawn	of	a	loose,	porous	soil,	and
	too	mossy	surface,	the	water-barrel	may	be	advan-
	tageously	used.
	Many	kitchen	crops	are	lost,	or	produced	of
	very	inferior	quality,	for	want	of	watering.	Let-
	tuces	and	cabbages	are	often	hard	and	stringy,
	turnips	and	radishes	do	not	swell,	onions	decay,
	cauliflowers	die	off;	and,	in	general,	in	dry	soils,
	copious	waterings	in	the	evenings,	during	the	dry
	season,	would	produce	that	fullness	of	succulency,
	which	is	found	in	the	vegetables	produced	in	the
	low	countries,	and	in	the	Marsh	Gardens	at	Paris;
	and	in	this	country	at	the	beginning	and	latter
	end	of	the	season.
	The	watering	of	the	foliage	of	small	trees,	to	pre-
	vent	the	increase	of	insects,	and	of	strawberries
	and	fruit	shrubs,	to	swell	the	fruit,	is	also	of	im-
	portance.
	To	water	the	Foliage	of	Wall	Trees.
	Water	is	to	be	supplied	to	a	garden	from	a	re-
	servoir,	situated	on	an	eminence,	a	considerable
	height	above	the	garden	walls.	Around	the
	whole	garden,	four	inches	below	the	surface	of
	the	ground,	a	groove,	between	two	and	three
	inches	deep,	has	been	formed	in	the	walls,	to	re-
	ceive	a	three-quarter	inch	pipe	for	conducting	the
	water.	About	fifty	feet	distant	from	each	other,
	are	apertures	through	the	wall,	two	and	a	half
	feet	high,	and	ten	inches	wide,	in	which	a	cock	is
	placed,	so	that	on	turning	the	handle	to	either	side
	of	the	wall,	the	water	issues	from	that	side.	The
	nozzles	of	the	cocks	have	screws	on	each	side,	to
	which	is	attached	at	pleasure	a	leathern	pipe,	with
	a	brass	cock	and	director;	roses,	pierced	with
	holes	of	different	sizes,	being	fitted	to	the	latter.


By	this	contrivance,	all	the	trees,	both	inside	and
	outside	the	wall,	can	be	most	effectually	watered
	and	washed,	in	a	very	short	space	of	time,	and
	with	little	trouble.	One	man	may	go	over	the
	whole	in	two	hours.	At	the	same	time	the	bor-
	ders,	and	even	a	considerable	part	of	the	quar-
	ters,	can	be	watered	with	the	greatest	ease,	when
	required.
	To	transplant.
	Transplanting	consists	in	removing	propagated
	plants,	whether	from	seeds,	cuttings,	or	grafts,	ac-
	cording	to	their	kinds	and	other	circumstances,
	to	a	situation	prepared	to	receive	them.	Trans-
	planting,	therefore,	involves	three	things:	first,
	the	propagation	of	the	soil,	to	which	the	plant	is
	to	be	removed;	secondly,	the	removal	of	the
	plant;	thirdly,	the	insertion	in	the	prepared	soil.
	The	preparation	of	the	soil	implies,	in	all	cases,
	stirring,	loosening,	mixing,	and	comminution;
	and,	in	many	oases,	the	addition	of	manure	or
	compost,	according	to	the	nature	of	the	soil	and
	plant	to	be	inserted,	and	according	as	the	same
	may	be	in	open	grounds,	or	pots,	or	hot-houses.
	The	removal	of	the	plant	is	generally	effected
	by	loosening	tlic	earih	around	it,	and	then	draw-
	ing	it	out	of	the	soil	with	the	hand	;	in	all	cases
	avoiding	as	much	as	possible	to	break,	or	bruise,
	or	otherwise	injure	the	roots.	In	the	case	of	small
	seedling	plants,	merely	inserting	the	spade,	and
	raising	the	portion	of	earth	in	which	they	grow
	will	suffice	;	but	in	removing	larger	plants,	it	is
	necessary	to	dig	a	trench	round	the	plant.
	In	some	cases,	the	plant	may	be	lifted	with	a
	ball	of	earth,	containing	all	its	roots,	by	means
	of	the	trowel	;	and	in	others,	as	in	large	shrubs	or
	trees,	it	may	be	necessary	to	cut	the	roots	at	a
	certain	distance	from	the	plant,	one	year	before
	removal,	in	order	to	furnish	them	with	young
	fibres,	to	enable	them	to	support	the	change.	In
	pots	less	care	is	necessary,	as	the	roots	and	ball
	of	earth	may	be	preserved	entire.
	To	accelerate	Plants	in	Hot-Houses.
	There	are	two	leading	modes	of	accelerating
	plants	in	these	buildings;	the	first	is	by	placing
	them	there	permanently,	as	in	the	case	of	the
	peach,	vine,	etc.,	planted	in	the	ground;	and	the
	second	is	by	having	the	plants	in	pots,	and	intro-
	ducing	or	withdrawing	them	at	pleasure.	As	far
	as	respects	trees,	the	longest	crops,	and	with	far
	less	care,	are	produced	by	the	first	method	;	but	in
	respect	to	herbaceous	plants	and	shrubs,	whether
	culinary,	as	the	strawberry	and	kidney-bean,	or
	ornamental,	as	the	rose	and	the	pink,	the	latter	is
	by	far	the	most	convenient	method.	Where	large
	pots	are	used,	the	peach,	cherry,	fig,	etc.,	will
	produce	tolerable	crops.	Vines	and	other	fruit
	trees,	when	abundantly	supplied	with	water	and
	manure	in	a	liquid	state,	require	but	a	very	small
	quantity	of	mould.
	To	protect	Vegetables	from	injuries	by	means	of
	Straw	Ropes.
	This	is	effected	by	throwing	the	ropes	in	differ-
	ent	directions	over	the	trees,	and	sometimes	de-
	positing	their	ends	in	pails	of	water.	It	has	been
	tried	successfully	on	wall-trees,	and	on	potatoes
	and	other	herbaceous	vegetables.	As	soon	as	the
	buds	of	the	trees	become	turgid,	place	poles
	against	the	wall,	in	front	of	the	trees,	at	from	four
	to	six	feet	asunder,	thrusting	their	lower	ends	into
	the	earth,	about	a	foot	from	the	wall,	and	fasten-
	ing	them	at	the	top	with	a	strong	nail,	either	to
	the	wall	or	coping.	Then	procure	a	quantity	of
	straw	or	hay-ropes,	and	begin	at	the	top	of	one	of
	the	outer	poles,	making	fast	the	end,	and	pass	the
	rope	from	pole	to	pole,	taking	a	round	turn	upon
	FRUIT	TREES.	67
	each,	until	the	end	is	reached,	when,	after	secur-
	ing	it	well,	begin	about	eighteen	inches	below,	and
	return	in	the	same	manner	to	the	other	end,	and
	so	on^	till	within	two	feet	of	the	ground.	Straw-
	ropes	have	also	been	found	very	useful	in	protect-
	ing	other	early	crops	from	the	effects	of	frost,	as
	peas,	potatoes,	or	kidney-beans,	by	fixing	them
	along	the	rows	with	pins	driven	into	the	ground.
	The	same	by	Nets.
	The	net	should	be	placed	out	at	the	distance	of
	fifteen	or	eighteen	inches	from	the	tree,	being
	kept	off	by	looped	sticks,	with	their	butts	placed
	against	the	wall,	and	at	a	distance	of	about	a	}	r	ard
	from	each	other.	In	order	to	make	them	stand
	firmly,	the	net	should	be	first	stretched	tightly	on,
	and	be	fastened	on	all	sides.	If	the	nets	were
	doubled	or	trebled,	and	put	on	in	this	way,	they
	would	be	a	more	effectual	screen,	as	the	meshes
	or	openings	would,	in	that	case,	be	rendered	very
	small.	Woollen	nets	are	deemed	the	best,	and	are
	now	in	general	use	in	Scotland.	In	screening
	with	nets	of	any	kind,	they	are	always	to	be	left
	on	night	and	day,	till	all	danger	be	over.
	The	same	by	Canvas	Screens.
	This	is	effected	either	by	placing	movable	can-
	vas	screens	over	or	around	detached	trees,	porta-
	ble	hand-cases	over	herbaceous	plants,	tents	or
	open	sheds	over	the	forests'	productions,	or	frames
	or	sheets	against	trees	trained	on	walls.	In	all
	cases	they	should	be	placed	clear	of	the	tree	or
	plant,	either	by	extended,	forked	or	hooked	sticks,
	or	any	other	obvious	resource.
	To	raise	and	manage	Fruit	Trees.
	In	the	removal	or	transplantation	of	trees,	gar-
	deners	and	nurserymen	are	generally	very	care-
	less	and	inattentive	in	taking	them	up,	and	care
	not	how	much	the	roots	are	broken	or	lessened	in
	number,	provided	they	have	enough	left	to	keep
	the	tree	alive;	the	consequence	is	that	although
	the	branches	left	on	remain	alive,	there	is	so	great
	a	deficiency	of	sap,	from	the	loss	of	roots,	that	the
	vessels	cannot	be	filled	the	following	spring.
	The	roots	are	broken	or	cut	off	at	random,	and
	generally	diminished	more	than	one-half,	or	they
	are	doubled	back	and	distorted,	and	if	there	be
	enough	left	to	keep	the	plant	alive,	it	is	thought
	quite	sufficient,	and	by	these	means	the	appear-
	ance	of	blossoms	and	fruit	being	prematurely	pro-
	duced,	those	stinted	and	deformed	plants	are	sold
	as	half	or	full-	trained	trees	for	four	times	the
	price	of	others,	and	when	sold	they	are	again
	taken	up	and	the	roots	treated	and	diminished	in
	the	same	careless	manner.
	When	the	soil	of	a	garden	wherein	fruit-trees
	are	to	be	planted	is	not	naturally	comfortable	or
	congenial	to	the	first	principle,	it	must	be	made	so.
	The	top	of	a	wall	should	be	so	formed	as	to
	throw	off	water,	for	otherwise	it	will	generally	be
	damped,	which	renders	the	trees	unhealthy,	and
	when	the	substance	against	which	the	branches
	are	fixed	is	dry,	the	temperature	on	all	sides	will
	be	more	equal.
	In	preparing	beds	or	borders,	due	attention
	must	be	paid	both	to	the	soil	and	subsoil,	as	each
	equally	affects	the	health	and	fruitfulness	of	trees,
	and	principally	as	it	retains	or	discharges	water,
	stagnant	water	being	at	all	times	particularly	det-
	rimental	to	the	fructification	of	trees.
	For	peaches,	nectarines,	etc.,	a	border	of	ten	or
	twelve	feet	wide	will	generally	prove	sufficient.
	In	cases	where	the	soil	has	been	too	close	and	re-
	tentive,	and	the	roots	apt	to	grow	deep	on	the
	substratum,	lay	a	stratum	of	six	inches	of	the
	common	soil	of	the	garden	and	then	form	a	strat-
	um	of	about	six	inches	for	the	roots	to	ruu	and


HORTICULTUKE.
	ahrubs,	being	taken	up	in	tbe	spring,	at	tbe	time
	when	they	are	about	to	bud,	with	some	of	their
	own	soil	carefully	preserved	among	the	roots,
	must	be	placed	upright	in	a	cellar	till	Michael-
	mas;	when,	with	the	addition	of	fresh	earth,	they
	are	jo	be	put	into	proper	tubs	or	vessels,	and
	placed	in	a	stove	or	hot-house,	where	they	must
	every	morning	be	moistened	or	refreshed	with	a
	solution	of	half	an	ounce	of	sal-ammoniac	in	a
	pint	of	rain-water.	Thus,	in	the	month	of	Feb-
	ruary,	fruits	or	roses	will	appear;	and,	with	re-
	spect	to	flowers	in	general,	if	they	are	sown	in
	pots	at	or	before	Michaelmas,	and	watered	in	a
	similar	manner,	they	will	blow	at	Christmas.
	To	preserve	Wood	from	Insects.
	In	the	East	Indies	aloes	are	employed	as	a	var-
	nish	to	preserve	wood	from	worms	and	other
	insects;	and	skins,	and	even	living	animals,	are
	anointed	with	it	for	the	same	reason.	The	havoc
	committed	by	the	white	ants,	in	India,	first	sug-
	gested	the	trial	of	aloe	juice	to	protect	wood	from
	them,	for	which	purpose	the	juice	is	either	used
	as	extracted,	or	in	solution	by	some	solvent.
	To	preserve	Young	Shoots	from	Slugs	and	Earwigs.
	Earwigs	and	slugs	are	fond	of	the	points	of	the
	young	shoots	of	carnations	and	pinks,	and	are	very
	troublesome	in	places	where	they	abound;	to	pre-
	vent	them	they	are	sometimes	insulated	in	water,
	being	set	in	cisterns	or	pans.	If	a	pencil	dipped
	in	oil	was	drawn	round	the	bottom	of	the	pots
	once	in	two	days,	neither	of	these	insects	or	ants
	would	attempt	them.	Few	insects	can	endure	oil,
	and	the	smallest	quantity	of	it	stops	their	progress.
	Vegetable	Liquor	to	hasten	the	Blowing	of	Bulbous-
	Rooted	Flowers.
	Take	nitre,	3	ounces;	common	salt,	1	ounce;
	potash,	1	ounce;	sugar,	ounce;	rain-water	1
	pound.	Dissolve	the	salts	in	a	gentle	heat,	in	a
	glazed	earthen	pot,	and	when	the	solution	is	com-
	plete	add	the	sugar,	and	filter	the	whole.	Put
	about	eight	drops	of	this	liquor	into	a	glass	jar,
	filled	with	rain	or	river-water.	The	jars	must	be
	kept	always	full,	and	the	water	removed	every	ten
	or	twelve	days,	adding	each	time	a	like	quantity
	of	the	liquor.	The	flowers	also	must	be	placed
	on	the	corner	of	a	chimney-piece,	where	a	fire	is
	regularly	kept.	The	same	mixture	may	be	em-
	ployed	for	watering	flowers	in	pots,	or	filling	the
	dishes	in	which	they	are	placed,	in	order	to	keep
	the	earth,	or	the	bulbs	or	plants	which	they	con-
	tain,	in	a	state	of	moisture.
	To	restore	Flowers.
	Most	flowers	begin	to	droop	and	fade	after	being
	kept	during	twenty-four	hours	in	water;	a	few
	may	be	revived	by	substituting	fresh	water,	but
	all	(the	most	fugacious,	such	as	poppy,	and	per-
	haps	one	or	two	others	excepted,)	may	be	restored
	by	the	use	of	hot	water.	For	this	purpose	place
	the	flowers	in	scalding	hot	water,	deep	enough	to
	eovfr	about	one-third	of	the	length	of	the	stem;
	by	the	time	the	water	has	become	cold	the	flowers
	will	have	become	erect	and	fresh	;	then	cut	off	the
	coddled	ends	of	the	stems	and	put	them	into	cold
	water.
	To	preserve	Flower	Seeds.
	Those	who	are	curious	about	saving	flower	seeds
	must	attend	to	them	in	the	month	of	August.
	Many	kinds	will	begin	to	ripen	apace,	and	should
	be	carefully	sticked	and	supported	to	prevent
	them	from	being	shaken	by	high	winds,	and	so
	partly	lost.	Others	should	be	defended	from
	much	wet,	such	as	asters,	marygolds,	and	gener-
	ally	those	of	the	class	syngenesia,	as	from	the
	construction	of	their	flowers	they	are	apt	to	rot,
	and	the	seeds	to	mould	in	bad	seasons.	When-
	ever	they	are	thought	ripe,	or	sooner	in	wei
	weather,	tbey	should	be	removed	to	an	airy	shed
	or	loft,	gradually	dried	and	rubbed	or	beat	out
	at	convenience.	When	dried	wrap	them	up	in
	papers	or	in	tight	boxes	containing	powdered
	charcoal.
	To	improve	all	sorts	of	Seeds.
	Charles	Miller,	son	of	the	celebrated	botanist,
	published	a	recipe	for	fertilizing	seed,	and	tried	it
	on	wheat,	by	mixing	lime,	nitre	and	pigeon's
	dung	in	water,	and	therein	steeping	the	seed.
	The	produce	of	some	of	these	grains	is	stated	at
	sixty,	seventy	and	eighty	stems,	many	of	the	ears
	five	inches	long,	and	fifty	corns	each,	and	none
	less	than	forty.
	To	preserve	Seeds	for	a	long	time.
	When	seeds	are	to	be	preserved	longer	than	the
	usual	period,	or	when	they	are	to	be	sent	to	a
	great	distance,	sugar,	salt,	cotton,	saw-dust,	sand,
	paper,	etc.,	have	been	adopted	with	different	de-
	grees	of	success.	Chinese	seeds,	dried	by	means
	of	sulphuric	acid,	in	Leslie's	manner,	may	be	af-
	terwards	preserved	in	a	vegetating	state	for	any
	necessary	length	of	time	by	keeping	them	in	an
	airy	situation	in	any	common	brown	paper,	and	oc-
	casionally	exposing	them	to	the	air	on	a	fine	day,
	especially	after	damp	weather.	This	method	will
	succeed	with	all	the	larger	mucilaginous	seeds.
	Very	small	seeds,	berries	and	oily	seeds	may	pro-
	bably	require	to	be	kept	in	sugar,	or	among	cur-
	rants	or	raisins.
	To	preserve	Exotic	Seeds.
	Five	years	ago,	says	a	correspondent	of	the
	Monthly	Magazine,	I	had	a	collection	of	seeds
	sent	me	from	Scrampoore,	in	the	East	Indies,
	which	have	been	since	that	period	kept	in	small
	bottles	in	a	dry	situation,	without	corks	;	last
	spring	some	of	them	were	sown,	and	produced
	strong,	healthy	plants,	under	the	following	sys-
	tem	;	but	if	taken	from	the	bottles	and	sown	in
	the	ordinary	way	I	have	found	them	either	to	fail
	altogether	or	to	produce	germination	so	weak	that
	the	greatest	care	can	never	bring	them	to	any
	perfection.
	I	have	long	observed	that	oxygen	is	necessary
	to	animal	and	vegetable	life,	and	that	soil	which
	has	imbibed	the	greatest	proportion	of	that	air	or
	gas	yields	the	strongest	germination,	and	with	the
	least	care	produces	the	best	and	most	healthy
	plants;	under	that	impression	I	prepare	the	soil
	by	adding	to	it	a	compost	made	from	decayed
	vegetables,	night	soil	and	fresh	earth,	well	mixed
	together	and	turned	several	times;	but	should	the
	weather	be	dry	I	have	generally	found	the	com-
	post	better	by	adding	water	to	keep	it	moist.	On
	the	evening	before	I	intended	to	sow	the	seeds	I
	have	immersed	them	in	a	weak	solution	of	chlo-
	rine,	and	suffered	them	to	remain	until	they	begun
	to	swell.
	By	pursuing	this	treatment	even	with	our	En-
	glish	annual	seeds,	I	am	gratified	with	an	earlier
	germination	and	with	generally	stronger	and	more
	healthy	plants.
	To	dry	Flowers.
	They	should	be	dried	off	as	speedily	as	possi-
	ble,	the	calyces,	claws,	etc.,	being	previously	taken
	off;	when	the	flowers	are	very	small	the	calyx	ia
	left,	or	even	the	whole	flowering	spike,	as	in	the
	greatest	portion	of	the	labiate	flowers	;	compound
	flowers	with	pappous	seeds,	as	coltsfoot,	ought	to
	be	dried	very	high	and	before	they	are	entirely
	opened,	otherwise	the	slight	moisture	that	re-
	mains	would	develope	the	pappi,	and	these	would
	form	a	kind	of	cottony	nap,	which	would	be	very


TO	MAKE	BREAD.
	97
	tablespoonful	of	cream;	mix	them	well	together,
	and	pla^e	them	in	the	room,	on	a	plate	where	the
	flies	are	troublesome,	and	they	will	soon	disappear.
	To	make	Excellent	Bread.
	Mix	seven	pounds	of	best	flour	with	three
	pounds	of	pared	boiled	potatoes.	Steam	off	the
	water,	and	leave	them	a	few	minutes	on	the	fire,
	mash	them	fine,	and	mix	them	whilst	quite	warm
	in	the	flour,	with	a	spoonful	or	more	of	salt.	Put
	a	quart	of	water,	milk	warm,	with	three	large
	spoonsful	of	yeast,	gradually	to	the	potatoes	and
	flour.	Work	it	well	into	a	smooth	dough,	and	let
	it	remain	four	hours	before	it	is	baked.
	To	make	Bread	with	a	very	small	quantity	of	Yeast.
	Put	one	bushel	of	flour	into	the	trough,	mix
	three-quarters	of	a	pint	of	warm	water,	and	one
	teaspoonful	of	thick	yeast	well	together;	pour	a
	email	quantity	in	a	hole	made	in	the	centre	of	the
	flour	large	enough	to	contain	two	gallons	of	water;
	then	stir	with	a	stick,	about	two	feet	long,	some
	of	the	flour,	until	it	is	as	thick	as	pudding	batter.
	Strew	some	of	the	dry	flour	over	it,	and	let	it	rest
	for	an	hour,	then	pour	about	a	quart	more	water,
	and	having	stirred	it	as	before,	leave	it	for	two
	hours,	and	then	add	a	gallon	more	of	warm	water.
	Stir	in	the	flour	again,	and	in	about	four	hours
	more,	mix	up	the	dough,	and	cover	it	warm;	in
	about	four	hours	more	you	may	put	it	in	the	oven,
	and	as	light	bread	will	be	obtained	as	though	a
	pint	of	yeast	had	been	used.
	To	prepare	Bread	in	the	Method	of	the	London
	Bakers.
	Sift	a	sack	of	flour	into	the	kneading-trough	;
	add	six	pound?	of	salt,	dissolve	them	separately
	in	a	pailful	of	water	(cooled	to	90	Fahr.)	with
	two	quarts	of	yeast.	Stir	it	well,	and	strain	it
	through	a	cloth	or	sieve;	afterwards	mix	it	with
	the	flour	into	a	dough,	next	cover	it	up	with	cloths
	and	shut	down	the	trough-lid	close	to	retain	the
	heat.	In	two	hours	more	mix	in	another	pailful
	of	warm	water	with	the	sponge,	and	again	cover
	it	up	for	two	hours.	After	this	knead	it	for	more
	than	an	hour,	with	three	pailsful	of	warm	water.
	Return	the	dough	to	the	trough,	sprinkle	it	with
	dry	flour,	and	in	four	hours'	time	knead	it	well	for
	about	half	an	hour,	when	it	will	be	fit	to	mould
	into	loaves.
	To	prepare	Household	Bread.
	Mix	four	ounces	of	salt,	three	quarts	of	water,
	a	pint	of	yeast,	and	a	peck	of	seconds	flour,	in	a
	trough.	When	properly	fermented,	knead	and
	divide	it	into	loaves.	Sometimes	a	portion	of	rye-
	meal,	rice,	flour,	or	boiled	potatoes,	are	mixed
	with	the	flour	previous	to	the	kneading;	the	two
	former	serve	to	bind	the	bread,	the	latter	cause	it
	to	be	open	and	spongy.
	To	produce	one-third	more	Bread	from	a	given
	Quantity	of	Wheat.
	Boil	a	bushel	of	the	coarsest	bran	in	seven	gal-
	lons	of	water	for	one	hour;	keep	stirring	it,	that
	it	may	not	stick	to	the	bottom;	then	pour	it	off
	into	a	trough	or	tub	full	of	holes,	over	which	lay
	a	coarse	cloth	or	sieve.	On	the	top	of	the	whole
	put	a	wooden	cover,	with	a	weight	sufficiently
	heavy	to	press	out	the	liquor	from	the	bran,	which
	will	sink	to	the	bottom	of	the	tub	in	a	thick	pulp.
	This	liquor	will	contain	the	essential	oil	of	the
	grain,	and	when	kneaded	in	with	a	proper	propor-
	tion	of	flour	it	will	yield	one-third	more	than	the
	same	quantity	would	made	with	water	in	the	usual
	way.
	To	make	French	Bread.
	Put	a	pint	of	milk	into	three	quarts	of	water.
	In	winter	let	it	be	scalding	hot,	but	in	summer
	1
	little	more	than	milk	warm.	Put	in	salt	sufficient.
	Take	a	pint	and	a	half	of	good	ale	yeast,	free
	from	bitterness,	and	lay	it	in	a	gallon	of	water	the
	night	before.	Pour	off	the	yeast	into	the	milk
	and	water,	and	then	break	in	rather	more	than	a
	quarter	of	a	pound	of	butter.	Work	it	well	till	it
	is	dissolved;	then	beat	up	two	eggs	in	a	basin,
	and	stir	them	in.	Mix	about	a	peck	and	a	half
	of	flour	with	the	liquor,	and	in	winter	make	the
	dough	pretty	stiff,	but	more	slack	in	summer;
	mix	it	well,	and	the	less	it	is	worked	the	better.
	Stir	the	liquor	into	flour,	as	for	pie-crust,	and
	after	the	dough	is	made	cover	it	with	a	cloth,	and
	let	it	lie	to	rise	while	the	oven	is	heating.	When
	the	loaves	have	lain	in	a	quick	oven	about	a	quar-
	ter	of	an	hour,	turn	them	on	the	other	side	for
	about	a	quarter	of	an	hour	longer.	Then	take
	them	out,	and	chip	them	with	a	knife,	which	will
	make	them	look	spongy,	and	of	a	fine	yellow,
	whereas	rasping	takes	off	this	fine	color,	and	ren-
	ders	their	look	less	inviting.
	To	make	wholesome	Mixed	Bread.
	Take	of	rice	3	pounds;	boil	it	in	a	sufficient
	quantity	of	water	till	reduced	to	a	soft	pulp,	then
	rub	it	with	6	pounds	of	mealy	potatoes,	cooked
	by	steam,	and,	when	well	blended,	add	6	pounds
	of	flour.	Make	the	whole	into	a	dough	with	water,
	and	ferment	with	yeast,	in	the	usual	manner.
	To	make	Bran	Bread.
	To	four	pounds	of	best	household	flour	put	two
	tablespoonsful	of	small	beer	yeast	and	a	half	pint
	of	warm	water.	Let	it	stand	two	hours	in	a	warm
	place.	Add	half	a	pound	of	bran	and	a	teaspoon-
	ful	of	salt;	make	the	dough	with	skim-milk	or
	warm	water;	cover	it	up	and	let	it	stand	an	hour.
	Put	the	loaves	into	warm	dishes,	and	let	them
	stand	twenty	minutes	before	they	go	into	the	oven.
	Another	Method.
	Mix	with	half	a	peck	of	flour,	containing	the
	whole	of	the	bran,	a	quarter	of	a	pint	of	small-
	beer	yeast,	and	a	quart	of	lukewarm	water;	stir
	it	well	with	a	wooden	spoon	until	it	becomes	a
	thick	batter,	then	put	a	napkin	over	the	dough
	and	set	it	about	three	feet	from	the	fire,	until	it
	rises	well.	Add,	if	requisite,	a	little	more	warm
	water,	strew	over	it	a	tablespoonful	of	salt,	and
	make	the	whole	into	a	stiff	paste.	Put	it	to	the
	fire,	and	when	it	rises	again	kneed	it	into	the
	dough.	If	baked	in	tins	the	loaves	will	be	im-
	proved.
	To	make	Leaven	Bread.
	Take	about	two	pounds	of	dough	of	the	last
	making,	which	has	been	raised	by	barm	;	keep	it
	in	a	wooden	vessel	covered	well	with	flour.	This
	will	become	leaven	when	sufficiently	sour.	Work
	this	quantity	into	a	peck	of	flour	with	warm	water.
	Cover	the	dough	close	with	a	cloth	or	flannel,	and
	keep	it	in	a	warm	place	;	further	mix	it	next	morn-
	ing	with	two	or	three	bushels	of	flour,	mixed	up
	with	warm	water	and	a	little	salt.	When	the
	dough	is	thoroughly	made	cover	it	as	before.	A
	soon	as	it	rises	knead	it	well	into	leaves.	Ob-
	serve	in	this	process,	that	the	more	leaven	is	put
	to	the	flour	the	lighter	the	bread	will	be,	and	the
	fresher	the	leaven	the	less	sour	it	will	taste.
	To	make	Four	Quartern	Loaves	for	Family	Use.
	Procure	a	peck	of	flour,	with	which	mix	a	hand-
	ful	of	salt	to	three	quarts	of	water,	and	add	half	a
	pint	of	good	fresh	yeast.	Work	the	whole	well
	together,	and	set	it	to	rise	at	a	moderate	distance
	from	the	fire	from	two	to	three	hours.	Then	di-
	vide	it	into	four	equal	parts,	put	it	into	tins,	and
	send	it	to	the	baker's.
	The	London	bakers,	to	give	their	flour	a	faoti-


BEES	AND	BEE-HIVES.
	99
	their	respective	openings,	and	stop	them	round
	with	mortar,	after	which	turn	the	board	to	admit
	the	bees	to	ascend	for	the	purpose	of	working;
	cover	the	glasses	with	the	small	upper	hive,	and
	do	npt	look	at	them	for	a	few	days.	Indeed,	no-
	thing	will	then	be	necessary	but	to	ascertain	when
	they	are	filled,	which	is	known	by	the	cell	being
	sealed	over,	which	may	he	expected	in	about
	twenty	days	after	a	swarm	has	been	hived.
	When	the	honey	is	to	be	taken	and	all	the
	glasses	removed,	it	will	be	requisite	first	to	turn
	the	board	to	exclude	the	bees	;	then	with	a	thin
	knife	loosen	them	from	the	adapter;	leave	them
	thus	for	about	an	hour	;	then	carry	the	glasses	in*
	verted	a	short	distance	from	the	hive	into	the
	shade,	or	raise	the	glasses	with	a	small	wedge,	and
	what	few	bees	remain	will	readily	leave	and	re-
	turn	to	their	original	hive.	This,	if	effected	early
	in	the	season,	will	afford	the	opportunity	of	im-
	mediately	replacing	the*	same,	or	another	set	of
	glasses	to	be	again	filled.
	Observe,	if	wanted	at	any	time	to	take	only	one
	or	two	of	the	glasses	with	honey,	do	not	turn	the
	board,	as	by	so	doing	the	combs	are	disunited,
	and	the	bees	themselves	will	then	empty	the	re-
	maining	glasses	(although	afterwards	re-fill	them),
	which	might	occasion	a	loss	of	time	in	the	best
	part	of	the	season	for	working;	to	simplify
	which,	only	loosen	such	glasses	as	are	wished	to
	be	removed	with	a	thin	knife,	set	them	on	a
	divider,	and	replace	others	in	their	stead.	The
	middle	of	a	fine	day	is	the	best	time	to	remove
	glasses.
	It	will	not	be	advisable	to	take	any	honey	from
	the	hive	after	the	end	of	July,	as	the	remaining
	part	of	the	season	might	not	prove	favorable	to
	their	gathering	enough	for	their	winter	support;
	therefore,	it	will	be	necessary	about	this	time,	or
	early	in	August,	to	remove	all	the	glasses	and
	turn	the	board,	to	finally	shut	them	up.
	Those	glasses	only	partly	filled	with	combs
	should	be	carefully	set	aside,	to	be	placed	on	again
	the	following	April;	if,	however,	the	stock	will
	require	feeding,	leave	one	or	more	of	the	glasses
	with	honey	for	that	purpose,	which	is	by	far	the
	best	mode.
	Thus	much	for	the	swarm	which	is	left	till	the
	following	April	the	time	to	commence	again
	working	the	glasses,	as	hives	are	now	full	of	combs
	and	brood;	should	the	season	prove	favorable,
	work	the	glasses	twice	or	more,	and	equal	success
	will	attend	every	subsequent	corresponding	year,
	but	the	first	season	a	swarm	cannot	be	expected	to
	fill	the	glasses	more	than	once,	which	will	pro-
	duce	eight	pounds	of	the	finest	honey.	This
	method	of	management	will	not	prevent	the	bees
	from	swarming.
	The	honey	thus	obtained	being	fresh	from	the
	hive,	will	be	of	the	finest	quality,	pure,	perfectly
	free	from	the	young	brood,	of	remarkably	fine
	fragrance,	clear	in	color,	and	very	far	superior	to
	any	produced	from	common	hives;	it	may	also
	be	taken	at	pleasure	without	injury	to	the	bees,
	especially	without	being	obliged	to	resort	at	any
	time	to	the	painful	and	execrable	process	of	smoth-
	ering	these	industrious	and	valuable	insects.
	To	work	Bees	in	Straw	Hives.
	The	double	cottage	straw	hive	will	answer	many
	purposes	in	the	keeping	of	bees,	as	either	a	glass
	or	a	^niall	straw	hive	may	be	worked	on	the	top
	of	it,	which	gives	it	an	advantage	over	the	com-
	mon	hive,	although	the	method	of	management
	is	simple	an	'I	the	price	easy.
	Prepare	this	hive	for	a	swarm	by	spreading	mor-
	tar	round	the	crown	of	it,	to	carry	the	adapter	to
	support	a	glass	or	small	straw	hive,	as	it	may	be
	worked	with	either.	Hive	the	swarm	as	usual,
	taking	care	to	secure	the	opening	at	the	top;	after
	removing	it	to	its	appointed	place	let	the	swarm
	work	for	ten	days,	then	clear	the	opening	at	top,
	and	affix	either	a	glass	or	a	small	straw	hive;
	the	bees	will	then	ascend	for	working.	Stop	the
	upper	hive	around	with	mortar	to	the	adapter,
	and	darken	it	with	a	common	hive	;	in	the	course
	of	from	fifteen	to	twenty	days	examine	it,	and	if
	full	take	the	honey	as	here	directed:	Pass	a	knife
	or	wire	between	the	adapter	and	small	hive	to
	separate	the	combs,	after	which	remove	the	small
	hive	of	honey	on	a	divider	(a	brass	plate	about
	twelve	inches	square)	;	it	will	then	be	irnmedi
	ately	necessary	to	place	a	small	hive	on	tho
	adapter,	or	stop	the	opening	till	another	hive	is
	to	be	worked.	Carry	the	small	hive	now	on	the
	divider	a	short	distance	awa.y,	or	rather	into	a
	darkened	room	;	invert	it	and	place	over	it	a	small,
	empty	hive	of	the	same	size	;	keep	them	steady,
	and,	by	tapping	round	the	bottom	hive	the	bees
	in	a	few	minutes	will	ascend	to	the	hive	above;
	carry	them	to	within	about	two	yards	of	their
	original	stock,	shake	them	out,	and	they	will	enter
	again	as	usual.
	To	work	Bees	in	a	Box	Hive.
	This	elegant	box	hive	consists	of	three	divi-
	sions,	and	is	so	ingeniously	constructed	that	the
	finest	honey	may	be	taken	without	destroying	the
	bees;	you	may	work	a	glass	hive	on	the	top,	and
	inspect	the	whole	of	their	curious	and	interesting
	labors	without	disturbing	them.
	When	a	swarm	is	placed	in	this	hive	shut	the
	slider	of	the	adapter;	tie	a	small	cord	round	to
	secure	the	parts	;	hive	the	swarm	in	the	usual
	manner;	at	night	bring	it	into	the	bee-hou.e	or
	place	appointed	;	open	the	entrance	at	bottom	and
	remove	the	cord	;	if	a	glass	hive	is	worked	on	the
	top	place	it	on	the	same	evening,	stop	it	round,
	then	draw	back	the	slider	to	clear	the	grate,	leave
	it	a	few	minutes,	and	the	bees	will	ascend	for
	working.	Then	raise	the	two	upper	divisions	to
	be	able	to	remove	the	bottom	division,	and	by	the
	compression	the	bees	are	obliged	to	work	in	the
	glass	hive,	which	should	be	darkened	with	its
	proper	cover	and	left	for	a	few	days	without	being
	looked	at;	it	will	be	necessary	to	replace	the	un-
	employed	division	at	tho	bottom	four	or	five	days
	previous	to	the	removal	of	the	glass	of	honey	:	in
	removing	which	shut	the	slider	and	leave	it	in
	this	state	for	one	hour;	then	follow	those	plain
	directions	laid	down	for	the	removal	of	glass
	hives.
	If	more	honey	is	wanted	from	this	hive	than
	the	glass	affords,	examine	the	divisions	early	in
	September;	if	the	three	are	full,	viz.,	tho	two
	upper	hives	of	honey	and	the	bottom	of	combs,
	and	not	otherwise,	proceed	to	remove	the	fillets
	of	the	top	division	and	pass	the	brass	divider	be-
	tween	those	parts,	where	it	should	remain	for	an
	hour;	then	raise	the	division	with	a	wedge	and
	draw	back	the	slider	of	the	adapter	to	let	the	beea
	out,	and	when	clear,	which	will	be	in	a	few	min-
	utes,	remove	this	division	and	place	the	adapter
	to	the	next	division,	and	by	withdrawing	the
	divider	it	will	fit	close	down	;	when	the	combs	of
	honey	are	taken	out	from	this	division	it	should
	be	replaced	at	the	bottom;	consequently,	every
	year	or	once	in	two	years	gives	them,	as	it	were,
	a	fresh	division	or	part	of	a	hive	to	rebuild	in,
	which	keeps	the	bees	constantly	at	work	and	the
	combs	in	a	good	state	of	preservation.
	To	work	Bees	in	a	Hexagon	Box	Hive	and	Straw
	Hive.
	This	box	hive	is	admirably	constructed	with
	slider	and	grating,	having	large	glass	windows,


104
	FARRIERY.
	honey.	When	the	glass	is	completely	filled	slide
	a	tin	plate	between	the	hive	or	box,	so	as	to	cover
	the	passage,	and	in	half	an	hour	the	glass	may
	be	taken	away	with	safety.	The	few	bees	that
	remain	will	readily	go	to	their	companions.
	Mr.	Thorley	has	added	a	glass	window	to	his
	straw	hives,	in	order	to	observe	the	progress	of
	the	bees,	and	this	contrivance	is	useful,	especially
	if	one	hive	is	to	be	removed	whilst	the	season
	continues	favorable	for	their	collecting	of	honey,
	for	when	the	combs	are	filled	with	honey	the	cells
	are	sealed	up,	and	the	bees	forsake	them,	and	re-
	Bide	mostly	in	the	hives	in	which	their	works	are
	chiefly	carried	on.	Observing	also	that	the	bees
	were	apt	to	extend	their	combs	through	the	pas-
	Bage	or	communication	into	the	upper	hive,	which
	rendered	it	necessary	to	divide	the	comb	when	the
	upper	hive	was	taken	away,	he	puts	in	the	pas-
	sage	a	wire	screen	or	netting,	the	meshes	of	which
	are	large	enough	for	a	loaded	bee	to	pass	easily
	through	them,	and	thus	he	prevents	the	junction
	of	the	combs	from	one	box	to	the	other,	and
	consequently	obviates	the	necessity	of	cutting
	them	and	of	spilling	some	honey,	which,	running
	down	among	a	crowd	of	bees,	incommoded	them
	much.
	Langstroth's	patent	hive	is	now	much	recom-
	mended.	In	it	each	comb	has	a	separate	frame.
	You	can	cut	out	the	queen	cells	in	the	spring	and
	thus	prevent	swarming.	A	hive	ought	not	to	be
	used	for	more.	than	eight	years.	But	the	bees
	need	not	be	destroyed	;	you	may	drive	them	from
	one	hive	to	another	by	rapping	on	the	occupied
	one.
	To	manage	Sees	on	Mr.	Cobbett's	plan.
	The	best	hives	are	those	made	of	clean,	un-
	blighted	rye-straw.	A	swarm	should	always	be
	put	into	a	new	hive,	and	the	sticks	should	be	new
	that	are	put	into	the	hive	for	the	bees	to	work	on,
	for	if	the	hive	be	old	it	is	not	so	wholesome,	and	a
	thousand	to	one	but	it	contains	the	embryos	of
	moths	and	other	insects	injurious	to	bees.	Over
	the	hive	itself	there	should	be	a	cap	of	thatch,
	made	also	of	clean	rye-straw,	and	it	should	not
	only	be	new	when	first	put	on	the	hive,	but	a	new
	one	should	be	made	to	supply	the	place	of	the
	former	one	every	three	or	four	months,	for	when
	the	straw	begins	to	get	rotten,	as	it	soon	does,	in-
	sects	breed	in	it,	its	smell	is	bad,	and	its	effect	on
	the	bees	is	dangerous.
	The	hives	should	be	placed	on	a	bench,	the	legs
	of	which	mice	and	rats	cannot	creep	up.	Tin
	round	the	legs	is	best.	But	even	this	will	not	keep
	down	ants,	which	are	mortal	enemies	to	bees.	To
	keep	them	away	if	they	infest	the	hive,	take	a
	green	stick	and	twist	it	round	the	leg	of	the	bench,
	and	at	a	few	inches	from	it,	and	cover	this	stick
	with	tnr.	This	will	keep	away	the	ants.
	Besides	the	hive	and	its	cap	there	should	be	a
	sort	of	shed,	with	top,	back	and	ends,	to	give	ad-
	ditional	protection	in	winter,	though	in	summer
	hives	may	be	kept	too	hot,	and	in	that	case	the
	bees	become	sickly	and	the	produce	light.	Th
	situation	of	the	hive	is	to	face	the	southeast,	or
	at	any	rate	to	be	sheltered	from	the	north	and	the
	west.	From	the	north	always,	and	from	the	west
	in	winter.	If	it	be	a.	very	dry	season	in	summer
	it	contributes	greatly	to	the	success	of	the	bees	to
	place	clear	water	near	their	home	in	a	thing	that
	they	can	conveniently	drink	out	of,	for	if	they
	have	to	go	a	great	way	for	drink	they	have	not
	much	time	for	work.
	It	is	supposed	that	bees	live	only	a	year	;	at
	any	rate	it	is	best	never	to	keep	the	same	stall	or
	family	over	two	years,	except	it	be	wanted	to	in-
	crease	the	number	of	hives.	The	swarm	of	this
	summer	should	be	always	taken	in	the	autumn	of
	the	next	year.	If	you	save	the	bees	when	the
	honey	is	taken,	they	must	be	fed,	and	if	saved
	they	will	die	of	old	age	before	the	next	fall,	and
	though	young	ones	will	supply	the	place	of	the
	dead,	this	is	nothing	like	a	good	swarm	put	up
	during	the	summer.
	A	good	stall	of	bees,	that	is	to	say	the	produce
	of	one,	is	always	worth	about	two	bushels	of	good
	wheat.	The	cost	is	nothing	to	the	laborer.	He
	must	be	a	stupid	countryman,	indeed,	who	cannot
	make	a	bee-hire,	and	a	lazy	one,	indeed,	if	he
	will	not	if	he	can.	In	short,	there	is	nothing
	but	care	demanded,	and	there	are	very	few	situ-
	ations	in	the	country	where	a	laboring	man
	may	not	have	half	a	dozen	stalls	of	bees	to
	take	every	year.	The	main	things	are	to	keep
	away	insects,	mice	and	birds,	and	especially	a
	little	bird	called	the	bee-bird,	and	to	keep	all
	clean	and	fresh	as	to	the	hives	and	coverings.
	Never	put	a	swarm	into	an	old	hive.	If	wasps
	or	hornets	annoy	you,	watch	them	home	in	the
	day	time,	and	in	the	night	kill	them	by	fire	or	by
	boiling	water.
	The	new	Italian	bee	is	more	industrious	than
	the	common	bee.	It	has,	too,	a	larger	proboscis,
	and	can	suck	the	red	clover.	It	is	more	docile
	than	the	common	bee.	A	new	queen	can	be	best
	introduced	ir.to	a	hive	in	a	small	cage	of	wire
	gauze,	with	about	a	hundred	bees	of	her	own	kind,
	or	else	she	may	be	put	in	while	unhatched	in	the
	royal	cell.
	FARRIERY.
	[Attention	is	called	to	valuable	articles	upon	RINDERPEST	and	TRICHINA,	on	pages	467,	468,	469,	which	could	not	b
	finished	in	time	to	insert	here,	owing	to	delay	in	receiving	the	latest	European	iuformation	(May	15,	1866).]
	The	Teeth	of	a	Horse.
	At	five	years	of	age	the	horse	has	forty	teeth
	twenty-four	molar	or	jaw	teeth,	twelve	incisor	or
	front	teeth	and	four	tusks	or	canine	teeth	between
	the	molars	and	incisors,	but	usually	wanting	in
	tiiu	mare.
	At	birth	only	the	two	nippers	or	middle	inci-
	sors	appear.
	At	one	year	old	the	incisors	are	all	visible	of
	the	first	or	milk	set.
	Before	three	years	the	permanent	nippers	have
	eome	through.
	At	four	years	old	the	permanent	dividers	next
	to	the	nippers	are	oat.
	At	five	the	mouth	is	perfect,	the	second	set	of
	teeth	having	been	completed.
	At	six	the	hollow	under	the	nippers,	called	the
	mark,	has	disappeared	from	the	nippers,	and	di-
	minished	in	the	dividers.
	At	seven	the	mark	has	disappeared	from	the
	dividers,	and	the	next	teeth,	or	corners,	are	level,
	though	showing	the	mark.
	At	eight	the	mark	has	gone	from	the	corners,
	and	the	horse	is	said	to	be	aged.	After	this	time,
	indeed	good	authorities	say	after	five	years,	the
	age	of	a	horse	can	only	be	conjectured.	But	the
	teeth	gradually	change	their	form,	the	incisors	be-
	coming	round,	oval,	and	then	triangular.	Dealers


108
	FARRIERY.
	eoft,	three	or	four	times,	then	anoint	them	with
	yellow	basilicon	mixed	with	a	little	green	oint-
	ment.
	The	Gripes.
	As	soon	as	the	disease	is	observed,	give	the
	draught	below,	and	a	clyster	composed	of	8	oz.
	common	salt	in	six	quarts	of	water	gruel	or	warm
	water.	If	there	is	great	pain	with	quick	pulse,
	take	away	three	quarts	of	blood.	The	belly	should
	be	well	rubbed	with	the	mustard	or	other	stimu-
	lating	embrocation.	If	no	relief	is	obtained	in
	two	hours	repeat	the	draught	and	embrocation,
	and	should	even	this	fail	give	him	a	pint	of	castor
	oil	with	one	and	a	half	ounces	of	laudjinum.	If
	castor	oil	cannot	be	had	a	pint	and	a	quarter	of
	linseed	oil	may	be	used.
	Draught	for	Gripes.
	Balsam	copaiva	1	ounce,	oil	of	juniper	1	drachm,
	spirit	of	nitrous	ether	half	an	ounce,	mint	wafer
	1	pint.	Mix	for	one	dose.
	Another.	Allspice,	bruised,	pound;	brandy,
	2	quarts.	Dose,	2	to	4	ounces,	in	water,	ale,	or
	mint	tea.
	Diabetes.
	This	disorder,	which	consists	in	an	involuntary
	discharge	of	the	urine,	which	is	pale	and	thin,	fre-
	quently	proves	fatal.	To	treat	it,	give	the	follow-
	ing
	Ball	for	Diabetes.
	Peruvian	bark	4	drachms,	ginger	1	drachm,	if
	costive	after	it,	give	a	pint	of	castor	oil.	Repeat
	if	necessary.
	Eyes.
	Inflammation	of	the	eye	is	often	cured	by	scari-
	fying	with	a	lancet	the	inside	of	the	upper	and
	lower	brow,	and	the	distended	vessels	of	the	eye
	itself.	It	is	to	be	remembered	that	in	treating	an
	inflammation	of	this	important	organ,	we	should
	proceed	precisely	as	if	treating	a	human	being
	laboring	under	the	same	complaint	and	keep	the
	animal	on	short	allowance,	prevent	costiveness,
	keep	the	stable	cool	and	dark.
	Soreness	or	weakness	of	the	eye	is	cured	by
	bleeding	from	the	neck	and	using	the	following
	Eye-water.
	To	1	quart	of	water	put	3	drachms	of	the
	sugar	of	lead	or	two	drachms	of	white	vitriol.
	When	dissolved	let	it	settle	and	pour	off	the	clear
	liquor	for	use.	A	drop	may	be	put	into	each	eye
	three	times	a	day	with	a	feather.
	Film	or	Cataract.
	There	is	no	remedy	for	this	but	an	operation	by
	a	surgeon.	There	is	a	variety	of	washes,	etc.,
	recommended	by	various	authors,	but	they	are
	Farcy.
	This	disease	commences	in	small	hard	knots,
	which	soon	become	soft	and	ulcerous,	generally
	eituated	on	the	lymphatic	vessels	and	extending
	upwards.	It	not	unfrequently	ends	in	the	glan-
	ders.
	Cure	for	Farcy.
	Open	the	ulcers	and	touch	the	inside	of	the
	edges	slightly	with	powdered	verdigris,	by
	means	of	a	camel's	hair	pencil.	At	the	same	time
	give	the	following	ball	:	White	arsenic	8	grains,
	or	corrosive	sublimate	6	grains,	powdered	and
	mixed	with	flour	or	bread	or	any	other	vehicle
	that	will	form	a	ball	with	molasses.	Keep	the
	animal	warm,	mix	chopped	carrots	with	his
	mashes.	Intermit	one	day	and	give	a	similar	ball
	if	it	purge	add	10	grains	of	opium	to	it.	Attend
	constantly	to	the	ulcers;	wash	them	with	warm
	soap-suds,	and	keep	the	animal	by	himself	if	the
	disease	gains	the	nostrils	and	head,	and	becomes
	glanders	there	is	no	remedy.
	Grease.
	This	is	a	white	offensive	discharge	from	the
	skin	of	the	heels.	Wash	the	part	well	with	warm
	soap-suds	twice	a	day,	and	if	the	swelling	be	great
	apply	a	poultice	to	it,	when	the	sores	are	cleansed
	touch	them	with	a	rag	or	feather	dipped	in	a	solu-
	tion	of	chloride	of	zinc,	1	grain	to	the	ounce	of
	water.
	Foundered	Feet.
	This	is	known	by	the	contraction	of	the	hoof,
	which	will	appear	considerably	smaller	than	the
	sound	one.	The	horse	just	touches	the	ground
	with	the	toe	of	the	foundered	foot	on	account	of
	pain,	and	stands	in	such	a	tottering	way	that	you
	may	shove	him	over	with	your	hand.
	Cure.	Take	off	the	shoe,	bleed	freely	from	the
	thigh	vein,	and	purge	two	or	three	times.	Keep
	the	hair	close	trimmed	and	the	parts	clean.
	Hoof-bound.
	Cut	down	several	lines	from	the	coronet	to
	the	toe	all	round	the	hoof	and	fill	the	cuts	with
	tallow	and	soap	mixed.	Take	off	the	shoes	and
	(if	you	can	spare	him)	turn	the	animal	into	a	wet
	meadow,	where	his	feet	will	be	kept	moist.	Never
	remove	the	sole	nor	burn	the	lines	down,	as	this
	increases	the	evil.
	Lampas*
	This	consists	in	a	swelling	of	the	first	bar	of	the
	upper	palate.	It	is	cured	by	rubbing	the	swelling
	two	or	three	times	a	day	with	half	an	ounce	of
	alum	and	the	same	quantity	of	double	refined	sugar
	mixed	with	a	little	honey.	In	young	horses	it
	hardly	amounts	to	a	disease.
	Laxity.
	Never	attempt	to	stop	the	discharge	too	suddenly
	or	too	scon;	this	common	but	erroneous	practice
	has	killed	many	fine	horses.	To	begin	the	cure
	give	him	the	following
	Mild	Purging	Ball.
	Rhubarb	in	powder	1	ounce;	magnesia	half	an
	ounce	;	calomel	1	scruple	;	oil	of	aniseed	1	drachm.
	Mix	up	a	ball	with	honey	and	liquorice	powder.
	Next	day	give	the	horse	1	fluidounce	of	laud-
	anum	in	a	pint	of	water.	On	the	third	day	repeat
	the	drench	until	the	animal	is	well.
	Inflammation	of	the	.Lungs.
	Bleed	the	animal	copiously	as	soon	as	the	com-
	plaint	is	perceived,	and	repeat	it	in	six	hours	if
	the	fever,	quickness	of	breathing,	etc.,	do	not
	abate.	Blister	his	sides,	rowel	the	chest,	and	give
	the	following	ball,	which	is	to	be	taken	morning
	and	evening	until	the	staling	is	considerably	in-
	creased	;	one	a	day	will	then	be	sufficient.	Grass
	or	bran	mashes	should	be	the	food.
	The	Ball.
	Powdered	nitre	6	drachms	;	camphor	1	drachm	;
	as	much	syrup	and	linseed	oil	as	will	form	the
	ball	;	or,	a	drachm	of	tartar	emetic,	3	drachms	of
	nitre	and	1	drachm	of	digitalis.
	Mallenders.
	This	is	a	scabby	eruption	in	the	bend	of	the
	knee-joint,	causing	lameness.	Wash	the	cracks
	well	with	warm	soap-suds	and	a	sponge,	and	then
	with	the	vulnerary	water	twice	every	day;	wipe
	the	parts	dry	and	apply	the	citrine	ointment,	or
	white	lead	cerate.
	Mange.
	This	is	a	kind	of	itch.	Wash	with	soap-suda


DISEASES	OF	HORSES.
	109
	and	purge	with	castor	oil,	and	then	apply	strong
	sulphur	ointment	freely	and	repeatedly.	Feed	the
	horse	well,	and	work	him	moderately.
	Molten	Grease,	or	Dysentery.
	Bleed	and	purge	moderately,	feed	regularly	on
	a	diminished	allowance,	and	use	back-raking	and
	large	injections.
	PolleviL
	This	is	a	swelling	of	the	back	of	the	head	from
	a	bruise.	Bring	the	swelling	to	a	head,	as	any
	other	tumor,	by	the	suppurating	poultice,	which
	is	made	as	follows	:
	Suppurating	Poultice.
	Take	four	handsful	of	bran	and	three	middling
	sized	turnips,	boil	them	till	soft,	beat	them	well
	together;	then	boil	them	again	in	milk	to	a	thick
	poultice,	adding	to	it	2	ounces	of	linseed	and	half
	a	pound	of	hog's	lard.
	Quittor.
	Quittor	is	a	severe	bruise	of	the	coronet	by	the
	other	foot,	followed	after	by	suppuration.	Make
	an	opening	for	the	matter	to	descend	from	all	the
	neighboring	sinuses.	Keep	the	parts	well	cleaned
	with	warm	soap-suds,	then	inject	alum	water	into
	the	sinuses.	If	there	be	a	core,	touch	it	with
	caustic	;	when	this	is	discharged	dress	with	the
	green	ointment.
	Ring	Bone.
	If	recent,	blister	the	part	;	if	an	old	affection,
	recourse	must	be	had	to	firing.
	Sand-Crack.
	Remove	the	shoe	and	ascertain	carefully	the
	extent	of	the	injury	;	if	the	crack	be	superficial,
	fill	it	with	the	composition	below,	and	keep	the
	foot	cool	and	moist.	If	the	crack	has	extended
	to	the	sensible	parts,	and	you	can	see	any	fungous
	flesh,	with	a	small	drawing	knife	remove	the
	edges	of	the	cracked	horn	that	press	upon	it.
	Touch	the	fungus	with	caustic,	dip	a	roll	of	tow
	or	linen	in	tar	and	bind	it	firmly	over	it.	The
	whole	foot	is	to	be	kept	in	a	bran	poultice	for	a
	few	days,	or	until	the	lameness	is	removed.	A
	shoe	may	then	be	put	on,	so	as	not	to	press	on	the
	diseased	part.	The	pledget	of	tow	may	now	be
	removed,	the	crack	filled	with	the	composition,
	and	the	animal	turned	into	some	soft	meadow.
	Composition	for	Sand-Crack.
	Beeswax	4	ounces;	yellow	rosin	2	ounces;	com-
	mon	turpentine	1	ounce;	tallow	or	suet	i	ounce.
	To	be	melted	together.
	Sit-fast*
	Are	horny	substances	on	the	back,	under	the
	saddle.	Take	hold	of	them	with	a	pair	of	pincers
	and	cut	them	out	radically;	leave	no	part	behind,
	or	they	will	grow	again.	Dress	the	wound	with
	the	green	ointment.
	Sallendera
	Require	the	same	treatment	as	mallenders,	which
	ee.	They	differ	only	in	being	at	the	bend	of	the
	hock-joint.
	Staggers.
	Three	disorders	often	receive	this	name	:	mad
	9taggers,	or	inflammation	of	the	brain;	megrims,
	or	epilepsy,	and	stomach	staggers,	or	palsy	of	the
	stomach.	In	the	first	the	animal	is	very	violent;
	young	horses	are	most	frequently	affected.	Bleed-
	ing	is	the	usual	treatment.	Megrims	is	attended
	by	the	signs	of	vertigo	and	confusion,	lasting	for
	a	few	minutes	at	a	time.	Moderate	feeding	and
	gentle	purgation	are	recommended	for	it.	Stomach
	ttaggers	generally	proceeds	from	distension	of	the
	stomach	with	indigestible	food,	especially	when
	the	horse	is	otherwise	in	a	bad	condition.	The
	great	object	of	treatment	must	be	to	empty	the
	alimentary	canal	by	the	use	of	cordial	purga-
	tives	and	clysters,	as	of	salt	and	water,	used	re-
	peatedly.
	Drench	for	Staggers.
	Barbadoes	aloes	6	drachms	;	calomel	2	drachms	;
	oil	of	peppermint	20	drops;	warm	water	1	pint;
	tincture	of	cardamons	2	ounces.	Mix	for	one
	dose.
	Another.
	Common	salt	4	ounces;	ginger	2	drachms	car-
	bonate	of	soda	1	ounce	;	water	1	quart.
	Strains.
	In	whatever	part	of	the	body	this	accident	oc-
	curs,	the	treatment	should	be	perfect	rest,	mode-
	rate	bleeding	and	purging	till	the	inflammation	is
	reduced,	when	any	stimulating	embrocation	may
	be	used.
	Strangury.
	Take	away	a	quart	of	blood	and	throw	up	a
	laxative	clyster	:	then	give	one	ounce	of	saltpetre
	and	one	fluidounce	of	sweet	spirits	of	nitre	in	a
	pint	of	water.
	Strangles.
	This	is	known	by	a	swelling	between	the	jaw-
	bone	and	the	root	of	the	tongue.	If	a	large	ru-
	mor	appear	under	the	jaw,	apply	the	suppurating
	poultice.	When	it	is	ripe	open	it,	squeeze	out	the
	matter	and	apply	a	warm	poultice.	In	a	few	days
	it	will	run	off.	Give	warm	bran	mashes	and	gen-
	tle	exercise.
	Thrush.
	Remove	the	shoe	and	pare	off	all	the	ragged
	parts	so	as	to	expose	the	diseased	parts	;	after
	cleaning	the	frog	nicely	apply	a	solution	of	blue
	vitriol,	and	shortly	after	pour	some	melted	tar
	ointment	into	the	cleft	of	the	frog,	and	cover	ita
	whole	surface	with	tow	soaked	in	the	same,	and
	on	the	tow	a	flat	piece	of	wood	about	the	width	of
	the	frog,	one	of	its	ends	passing	under	the	toe	of
	the	shoe,	the	other	extending	to	the	back	part	of
	the	frog	and	bound	down	by	cross	pieces	of	wood,
	the	ends	of	which	are	placed	under	the	shoe.	Re-
	peat	the	dressing	every	day.
	Vives.
	This	is-	a	disease	most	common	to	young	horses,
	and	consists	in	a	long	swelling	of	the	parotid
	gland,	beginning	at	the	root	of	the	ears	and	de-
	scending	downwards.	If	it	is	painful	and	in-
	flamed,	apply	the	poultice;	if	it	suppurates,	open
	the	lump,	let	out	the	matter	and	dress	with	the
	green	ointment.	If	it	is	hard	and	indolent	apply
	strong	mercurial	ointment	to	disperse	it	and	bleed
	moderately.
	Wind	Galls.
	These	swellings	appear	on	each	side	of	the	back
	sinew,	above	the	fetlock.	It	is	dangerous	to
	puncture	them	as	is	sometimes	done,	as	it	may
	produce	an	incurable	lameness.	Tight	bandages
	and	moistening	the	parts	frequently	with	a	strong
	solution	of	sal	ammoniac	in	vinegar	may	do	some
	good.
	Wounds.
	All	the	rules	laid	down	in	this	book	for	the
	treatment	of	wounds	in	the	human	subject,	apply
	strictly	to	horses.	As	in	simple	cuts,	however,
	sticking	plaster	cannot	be	used,	the	edges	of	the
	wound	should	be	neatly	stitched	together.	Much
	can	be	done	als-o	by	the	judicious	application	of
	bandages.	Farriers,	generally,	are	in	the	habit	of
	pursuing	such	absurd,	cruel,	and	fatal	practices
	in	these	cases,	either	by	cutting	off	a	part	that
	appears	to	be	partly	torn	from	its	connection,	or


DISEASES	OP	SWINE.
	Rupture	in	Swine.
	Where	a	number	of	swine	are	bred,	it	will	fre-
	quently	happen	that	some	of	the	pigs	will	have
	what	is	called	a	'rupture/	i.	e.	a	hole	broken	in
	the	rim	of	the	belly,	where	part	of	the	guts	comes
	out	and	lodges	betwixt	the	riin	of	the	belly	and
	the	skin,	having	an	appearance	similar	to	a	swell-
	ing	in	the	testicles.	The	male	pigs	are	more	liable
	to	this	disorder	than	the	females.	It	is	cured	by
	the	following	means	:
	Geld	the	pig	affected,	and	cause	it	to	be	held	up
	with	its	head	downwards	;	flay	back	the	skin	from
	the	swollen	place,	and	from	the	situation	in	which
	the	pig	is	held	the	guts	will	naturally	return	to
	their	proper	place.	Sew	up	the	hole	with	a	needle,
	which	must	have	a	square	point,	and	also	a	bend
	in	it,	as	the	disease	often	happens	between	the
	hinder	legs,	where	a	straight	needle	cannot	be
	used.	After	this	is	done,	replace	the	skin	that
	was	flayed	back	and	sew	it	up,	when	the	opera-
	tion	is	finished.	The	pig	should	not	have	much
	food	for	a	few	days	after	the	operation,	until	the
	wound	begins	to	heal.
	Sore	Throat	in	Swine.
	This	is	a	swelling	of	the	glands	of	the	throat,
	attended	by	wheezing,	and	general	weakness	of
	the	animal.	Indigo	is	useful	for	it;	a	piece	as
	large	as	a	hickory	nut	mashed	up	in	water	and
	poured	down.	Once	is	generally	enough.
	Hog	Cholera.
	Though	usually	incurable	when	it	occurs,	it
	may	nearly	always	be	prevented	by	putting	ashes
	in	the	trough	with	the	food	once	a	week.
	For	the	Foot-	Rot	in	Sheep.
	Take	a	piece	of	alum,	a	piece	of	green	vitriol,
	and	some	white	mercury	the	alum	must	be	in
	the	largest	proportion;	dissolve	them	in	water,
	and	after	the	hoof	is	pared	anoint	it	with	a	feather
	and	bind	on	a	rag	over	all	the	foot.
	Another.	Pound	some	green	vitriol	fine,	and
	apply	a	little	of	it	to	the	part	of	the	foot	affected,
	binding	a	rag	over	the	foot	as	above.	Let	the
	sheep	be	kept	in	the	house	a	few	hours	after	this
	is	done,	and	then	turn	them	out	to	a	dry	pasture.
	This	is	the	most	common	way	of	curing	the	foot-
	rot	in	Middlesex..
	Another.	Others	anoint	the	part	with	a	feather
	dipped	in	aqua	fortis	or	weak	nitrous	acid,	which
	dries	in	at	once.	Many	drovers	that	take	sheep
	to	market-towns,	carry	a	little	bottle	of	this	about
	with	them,	which,	by	applying	to	the	foot	with	a
	feather,	helps	a	lame	sheep	by	hardening	its	hoof
	and	enabling	it	to	travel	better.	Some	may	think
	aqua	fortis	is	of	too	hot	a	nature,	but	such	a	des-
	perate	disorder	requires	an	active	cure,	which,	no
	doubt,	is	ever	to	be	used	cautiously.
	Another.	Spread	some	slacked	quick-lime	over
	a	house	floor	pretty	thick	;	pare	the	sheep's	feet
	well,	and	turn	them	into	this	house,	where	they
	may	remain	for	a	few	hours,	after	which	turn	them
	into	a	dry	pasture.	This	treatment	may	be	re-
	peated	two	or	three	times,	always	observing	to
	keep	the	house	clean,	and	adding	a	little	more
	quick-lime	before	putting	them	in.
	The	foot	must	be	often	dressed,	and	the	sheep
	kept	as	much	as	possible	upon	dry	land.	Those
	animals	that	are	diseased	should	be	kept	separate
	frcm	the	flock,	as	the	disorder	is	very	infectious.
	Prevention	and	Cure	of	the	Foot-Rot	in	Sheep.
	On	suspected	grounds,	constant	and	careful	ex-
	amination	ought	to	take	place;	and	when	any	fis-
	sures	or	cracks,	attended	with	heat,	make	their
	appearance,	apply	oil	of	turpentine	and	common
	brandy.	This,	in	general,	produces	a	very	bene-
	117
	ficial	effect,	but	where	the	disease	has	been	long
	seated,	and	becomes,	in	a	manner,	confirmed	af-
	ter	cleaning	the	foot,	and	paring	away	the	infected
	parts,	recourse	is	had	to	caustics,	of	which	the
	best	seem	to	be	sulphuric	acid	and	the	nitrate	of
	mercury.	After	this	pledgets	are	applied,	the
	foot	bound	up,	and	the	animal	kept	in	a	clean,	dry
	situation,	until	its	recovery	is	effected.
	But	it	often	happens,	where	the	malady	is	ia-
	veterate,	that	the	disease	refuses	to	yield	to	any
	or	all	of	the	above	prescriptions.
	The	following	mode	of	treatment,	however,	if
	carefully	attended	to,	may	be	depended	upon	as	a
	certain	cure.	Whenever	the	disease	makes	its	ap-
	pearance,	let	the	foot	be	carefully	examined,	and
	the	diseased	part	well	washed,	and	pared	as	close
	as	possible,	not	to	make	it	bleed;	and	let	the	floor
	of	the	house,	where	the	sheep	are	confined,	be
	strewn	three	or	four	inches	thick	with	quick-lime
	hot	from	the	kiln	;	and	let	the	sheep,	after	having
	their	feet	dressed	in	the	manner	above	described,
	stand	in	it	during	the	space	of	six	or	seven
	hours.
	In	all	cases,	it	is	of	great	importance	that	the
	animal	be	afterwards	exposed	only	to	a	moderate
	temperature	be	invigorated	with	proper	food
	and	kept	in	clean,	easy,	dry	pasture;	and	the	dis-
	ease	will	be	effectually	remedied	in	the	course	of
	a	few	days.
	To	prevent	Sheep	from	catching	Gold	after	being
	Shorn.
	Sheep	are	sometimes	exposed	to	cold	winds	and
	rains	immediately	after	shearing,	which	exposure
	frequently	hurts	them.	Those	farmers	who	have
	access	to	the	sea	should	plunge	them	into	the	salt
	water;	those	who	have	not	that	opportunity,	and
	whose	flocks	are	not	very	large,	may	mix	salt	with
	water	and	rub	them	all	over,	which	will	in	a	great
	measure	prevent	any	mishap	befalling	the	animal
	after	having	been	stripped	of	its	coat.
	It	is	very	common	in	the	months	of	June	and
	July,	for	some	kinds	of	sheep,	especially	the	fine
	Leicester	breed,	which	are	commonly	thin-skinned
	about	the	head,	to	be	struck	with	a	kind	of	fly,
	and	by	scratching	the	place	with	their	feet,	they
	make	it	sore	and	raw.	To	prevent	this,	take	tar,
	train	oil,	and	salt,	boil	them	together,	and	when
	cold,	put	a	little	of	it	on	the	part	affected.	This
	application	keeps	off	the	flies,	and	likewise	heals
	the	sore.	The	salt	should	be	in	very	small	quan-
	tity,	or	powdered	sulphur	may	be	used	instead	of	it.
	To	prevent	the	Scab.
	Separating	the	wool,	lay	the	before-mentioned
	ointment	in	a	strip,	from	the	neck	down	the	back
	to	the	rump;	another	strip	down	each	shoulder,
	and	one	down	each	hip	;	it	may	not	be	unnecessary
	to	put	one	along	each	side.	Put	very	little	of	the
	ointment	on,	as	too	much	of	it	may	be	attended
	with	danger.
	To	destroy	Maggots	in	Sheep.
	Mix	with	1	quart	of	spring	water,	a	table	spoon-
	ful	of	the	spirits	of	turpentine,	and	as	much	of	the
	sublimate	powder	as	will	lie	upon	a	dime.	Shake
	hem	well	together,	and	cork	it	up	in	a	bottle,	with
	a	quill	through	the	cork,	so	that	the	liquid	may
	come	out	of	the	bottle	in	small	quantities	at	once,
	The	bottle	must	always	be	well	shaken	when	it	is
	to	be	used.	When	the	spot	is	observed	where	the
	maggots	are,	do	not	disturb	them,	but	pour	a	little
	of	the	mixture	upon	the	spot,	as	much	as	will	wet
	the	wool	and	the	maggots.	In	a	few	minutes	after
	the	liquor	is	applied	the	maggots	will	all	creep	to
	the	top	of	the	wool,	and	in	a	short	time	drop	off
	dead.	The	sheep	must,	however,	be	inspected	mxt
	day,	and	if	any	of	the	maggots	remain	undestroyed,


118
	FARKIERY.
	shake	them	off,	or	touch	them	with	a	little	more
	of	the	mixture.
	A	little	train	oil	may	be	applied	after	the	mag-
	gots	are	removed,	as	sometimes	the	skin	will	be
	hard	by	applying	too	much	of	the	liquid.	Besides,
	the	fly	is	not	so	apt	to	strike	when	it	finds	the
	smell	of	tho	oil,	which	may	prevent	a	second	at-
	tack.
	This	method	of	destroying	maggots	is	superior
	to	any	other,	and	it	prevents	the	animal	from	being
	disfigured	by	clipping	off	the	wool,	which	is	a
	common	practice	in	some	countries.
	Cure	for	the	Scab	in	Sheep.
	The	simplest	and	mot	efficacious	remedy	for
	this	disease,	was	communicated	to	the	Society	for
	the	Encouragement	of	Arts,	etc.,	by	the	late	Sir
	Joseph	Banks;	and	is	as	follows:
	Take	1	pound	of	quicksilver,	a	pound	of	Venice
	turpentine,	J	a	pint	of	oil	of	turpentine,	4	pounds
	of	hog's	lard.
	Let	them	be	rubbed	in	a	mortar	till	the	quick-
	silver	is	thoroughly	incorporated	with	the	other
	ingredients.	For	the	proper	mode	of	doing	which,
	it	may	be	right	to	take	the	advice	or	even	the	as-
	sistance	of	some	apothecary,	or	other	person	used
	to	make	such	mixtures.
	The	method	of	using	the	ointment	is	this	:	Be-
	ginning	at	the	head	of	the	sheep,	and	proceeding
	from	between	the	ears,	along	the	back,	to	the	end
	of	the	tail	;	the	wool	is	to	be	divided	in	a	furrow,
	till	the	skin	can	he	touched,	and	as	the	furrow	is
	made,	the	finger,	slightly	dipped	in	the	ointment,
	is	to	be	drawn	along	the	bottom	of	it,	where	it
	will	leave	a	blue	stain	on	the	skin	and	adjoining
	wool.
	From	this	furrow,	similar	ones	must	be	drawn
	down	the	shoulders	and	thighs	to	the	legs,	as	far
	as	they	are	woolly	;	and	if	the	animal	is	much	in-
	fected,	two	more	should	be	drawn	along	each	side,
	parallel	to	that	on	the	back,	and	one	down	each
	side,	between	the	fore	and	hind	legs.
	Immediately	after	being	dressed,	it	is	usual	to
	turn	the	sheep	among	other	stock,	with	out	any	fear
	of	the	infection	being	communicated	;	and	there	is
	scarcely	an	instance	of	a	sheep	suffering	any	injury
	from	the	application.	In	a	few	days	the	blotches
	dry	up,	the	itching	ceases,	and	the	animal	is	com-
	pletely	cured.	It	is	generally,	however,	thought
	proper	not	to	delay	the	operation	beyond	Michael-
	mas.
	The	hippobosca	ovina,	called	in	Lincolnshire
	Sheep-fjigg,	an	animal	well	known	to	all	shepherds,
	which	lives	among	the	wool,	and	is	hurtful	to	the
	thriving	of	sheep,	both	by	the	pain	its	bite	occa-
	sions,	and	the	blood	it	sucks,	is	destroyed	by	this
	application,	and	the	wool	is	not	at	all	injured.
	Our	wool-buyers	purchase	the	fleeces	on	which
	the	stain	of	the	ointment	is	visible,	rather	in	pre-
	ference	to	others,	from	an	opinion,	that	the	use	of
	it	having	preserved	the	animal	from	being	vexed,
	either	with	the	scab	or	faggs,	the	wool	is	less	lia-
	ble	to	the	defects	of	joints	or	knots;	a	fault	ob-
	served	to	proceed	from	very	sudden	stop	in	the
	thriving	of	the	animal,	either	from	want	of	food,
	or	from	disease.
	To	cure	the	Water	in	the	Heads	of	Sheep.
	"	Of	all	the	various	operations	by	which	this	dis-
	temper	may	be	eradicated,	I	must,	from	experience,
	give	th^	preference	to	one	which	will,	perhaps,
	astonish	such	readers	as	form	their	opinions
	more	from	theory	than	practice.	A	number	of
	medical	men	have	already	controverted	the	fact,
	and,	with	the	utmost	presumption,	disputed	my
	veracity	to	my	face,	after	I	had	witnessed	its	efn-
	cacj	in	a	thousand	instances.	It	is	no	other	than
	that	of	putting	a	sharpened	wire	up	the	nostril
	quite	through	the	middle	of	the	brain,	and	by	that
	means	perforating	the	bag	which	contains	the	fluid
	causing	the	disease.	This	is,	of	all	other	methods,
	the	most	certain	to	succeed	:	but	it	has	this	un-
	pleasant	appendage	annexed	to	it,	if	it	do	not	cure	;
	it	is	certain	to	kill.
	This	method	of	cure	is	not	only	the	most	expe-
	dient,	but	it	is	in	every	shepherd's	power,	and	one
	which	he	can	scarcely	perform	amiss,	if	he	attend
	to	the	following	plain	directions	:
	The	operation	must	be	performed	with	a	stiff
	steel	wire,	such	as	is	used	for	knitting	the	coarsest
	stockings.	It	must	be	kept	clean,	and	free	of	rust,
	oiled,	and	sharpened	at	the	point.	Care	must	be
	taken,	however,	that	its	point	be	only	one-	eighth
	of	an	inch	in	length,	for	if	it	is	tapered	like	a
	needle,	it	is	apt	to	take	a	wrong	direction	in	going
	up	the	nostrils,	fix	in	the	gristle	below	the	brain,
	and	torment	the	animal	to	no	purpose.	If	blunt
	in	the	point,	it	often	fails	to	penetrate	the	bladder,
	which	is	of	considerable	toughness,	shoving	it	only
	a	little	to	one	side	;	the	safest	way,	of	course,	is	to
	have	the	point	of	the	wire	sharp	and	short.
	The	shepherd	must	first	feel	with	his	thumbs
	for	the	soft	part	in	the	skull,	which	invariably
	marks	the	seat	of	this	disease.	If	that	is	near	the
	middle	of	the	head	above,	where,	in	two	cases	out
	of	three	at	least,	it	is	sure	to	be,	let	him	then	fix
	the	animal	firm	betwixt	his	knees,	hold	the	head
	with	one	hand,	laying	his	thumb	upon	the	soft	or
	diseased	part,	and	with	the	other	hand	insert	the
	wire	through	the	nostril,	on	a	parallel	with	the
	seat	of	the	distemper,	aiming	directly	at	the	point
	where	his	thumb	is	placed.	The	operation	is	per-
	formed	in	one	second,	for	if	he	feels	the	point	of
	the	wire	come	in	contact	with	his	thumb,	let	him
	instantly	set	the	animal	to	its	feet,	and	if	the
	weather	is	at	all	cold,	let	it	stand	in	the	house
	over-night.
	If	the	disease	is	seated	exactly	in	that	part
	where	the	divisions	of	the	skull	meet,	and	conse-
	quently	in	a	right	line	with	the	top	of	the	nose,
	he	must	probe	both	nostrils,	when,	should	he	raisa
	the	bulb	on	the	one	side,	he	will	be	sure	to	hit	it
	on	the	other.	If	the	seat	of	the	disease	cannot
	at	all	be	found,	and	if	the	animal	have	all	the
	symptoms	of	the	malady	the	water	is	then	en-
	closed	among	the	ventricles	in	the	middle	of	the
	brain,	and	must	be	treated	as	above.	Nothing
	can	be	done	in	the	last	case	save	with	the	wire,
	but	it	is	hard	to	cure	when	so	affected.	I	have
	found,	on	dissection,	the	fluid	contained	in	many
	little	cells	in	the	centre	of	the	brain,	and	though
	the	wire	had	penetrated	some	of	these	cells,	it	had
	missed	others.
	By	this	simple	operation	alone	I	have	cured
	hundreds,	and	though	I	never	kept	an	exact	re-
	gister,	I	think	I	have	not	known	it	to	fail	above
	once	in	four	times	as	an	average	in	all	the	in-
	stances	which	have	come	under	my	observation,
	and	some	of	these	I	knew	to	be	injudiciously
	performed,	the	disease	not	being	seated	in	a	point
	which	the	wire	could	reach.	I	have	at	times
	cured	a	dozen,	and	ten,	in	regular	succession,
	without	failing	once,	and	I	have	again	in	some
	cold	seasons	of	the	year,	killed	three	or	four	suc-
	cessively.
	Sir	George	M'Kenzie	has	insinuated	in	his	book
	on	sheep	that	I	was	the	inventor	of	this	mode	of
	cure,	but	it	is	by	no	means	the	case.	The	prac-
	tice,	I	understand,	has	been	in	use	amon.jj	shep-
	herds	for	ages	past,	but	they	were	often	obliged
	to	perform	it	privately,	their	masters,	like	the	pro-
	fessors	about	Edinburgh,	always	arguing	that-	tho
	piercing	of	the	brain	must	necessarily	prove	fatal.
	Sir	George	has,	however,	misunderstood	my	ac~


120
	FARRIEKY.
	look,	paleness	of	the	head,	loss	of	appetite,	and
	aversion	to	food.	The	birds	allow	themselves	to	be
	approached	and	seized	with	facility,	and	they	are
	without	strength.	Very	soon	a	slight	swelling	of
	the	crop	is	added	to	these	symptoms,	which	in	ten
	days	becomes	very	considerable.	I	have	taken
	nearly	a	pint	of	water	from	one.	By	pressing
	upon	the	crops	of	some	of	them	a	certain	quantity
	of	matter	is	discharged	by	the	bill,	but	never
	enough	entirely	to	ease	the	crop.	All	these	symp-
	toms	increase,	and	the	bird	dies	at	the	end	of	fif-
	teen	or	eighteen	days'	illness.
	I	sought	after	the	cause	of	this	disorder,	and	it
	was	easy	to	find	that	it	was	occasioned	by	the
	stagnant	water	of	which	these	animals	had	drunk	;
	in	the	course	of	the	year	the	heat	had	been	great,
	and	there	was	little	rain.	The	heat	had	hatched
	a	vast	swarm	of	small	red	worms,	resembling
	ascarides.	It	is	quite	certain	that	these	in-
	sects	must	have	been	swallowed	by	the	tur-
	keys,	and	from	this	cause,	and	the	bad	quality
	of	the	water	which	they	had	drunk	a	great	de-
	gree	of	inflammation	in	the	crop	would	ensue,
	with	a	stoppage	of	the	passage	which	conducts
	to	the	gizzard.	I	divided	the	turkeys	into	two
	classes	;	for	those	who	were	still	sound	I	or-
	dered	grain	and	good	wateij;	with	all	that	were
	diseased	I	practised	the	operation	of	tapping	with
	a	lancet,	in	the	lowest	part	of	the	crop.	I	in-
	jected	at	the	opening,	by	means	of	a	small	syringe,
	a	slight	decoction	of	Jesuit's	bark,	mixed	with	a
	little	brandy	;	which	was	repeated	twice	in	the
	course	of	the	day.	Next	day	the	wound	was	bet-
	ter	marked.	I	made	again	the	same	injection,
	and	two	hours	after,	I	forced	them	to	eat	a	little
	of	the	yolk	of	an	egg,	mixed	with	some	crumbs	of
	bread.	At	the	end	of	three	days	the	wound	in
	the	crop	was	closed;	which	I	might	have	pre-
	vented,	but	finding	a	natural	opening	in	the	bill,
	I	made	them	take,	during	eight	days,	in	their
	drink	the	same	substance	which	had	been	in-
	jected;	and	they	were,	by	degrees,	put	on	their
	usual	diet.	I	need	not	add	that	clear	water	was
	given	them,	instead	of	that	of	the	standing	pools.
	Ten	of	these	animals	had	died	before	my	arrival	;
	two	perished	during	the	treatment,	and	the	rest
	of	the	flock,	which	might	be	about	forty,	either
	escaped	the	disease	or	were	cured."	M.	Ligneau.
	To	cure	Colds	of	every	description	in	Cattle.
	The	first	attempt	should	be	to	remove	the	cause,
	by	giving	to	the	animal	a	warm	cordial	drink	;
	which,	acting	as	a	stimulant	on	the	stomach	and
	intestines,	will	give	fresh	motion	to	these	parts,
	and	enable	nature	to	resume	her	former	course.
	Take	of	sweet	fennel-seeds	and	cummin-seeds,
	each	2	ounces,	in	powder;	long	pepper,	turmeric,
	ginger	each	1	ounce,	in	powder.	Mix	for	one	drink.
	The	method	of	giving	this	drink	is	as	follows	:
	Put	it	into	a	pitcher	with	2	ounces	of	fresh	butter
	and	2	tablespoonsful	of	treacle	or	coarse	sugar;
	then	pour	one	quart	of	boiling	ale	upon	the	whole	;
	cover	them	down	till	new-milk	warm,	and	then
	give	the	drink	to	the	beast.
	In	two	hours	after	giving	the	drink	let	the	ani-
	mal	have	a	good	mash	made	of	scalded	bran,	or
	pr-	nnd	malt,	with	a	handful	or	two	of	ground
	0.1;^	or	barley	meal	added	to	it,	and	warm	water
	that	day.	In	slight	colds,	during	the	summer,
	these	drinks	may	be	given	to	cattle	while	in	their
	pasture;	and,	where	it	can	be	made	convenient,
	let	them	fast	two	hours	after,	and	then	graze	as
	usual.	It	is	also	necessary	to	examine	the	sick
	animals	every	day,	to	watc-h	them	while	they	both
	dung	and	stale,	and	to	see	whether	the	body	be	of
	a	proper	heat	and	the	nose	or	muzzle	of	a	natural
	breeze.
	If	these	be	regular	there	is	not	much	danger.
	If,	however,	feverish	symptoms	should	appear
	(which	frequently	happens),	the	animal	will	be-
	come	costive.	In	such	cases	give	one	of	the	fol-
	lowing:
	Purging	Drink.
	Take	of	Glauber	salts,	1	pound;	ginger,	in	pow-
	der,	2	ounces	;	treacle,	4	ounces.
	Put	all	the	ingredients	into	a	pitcher	and	pour
	3	pints	of	boiling	water	upon	them.	When	new-
	milk	warm	give	the	whole	for	one	dose.
	Another.
	Take	of	Epsom	salts,	1	pound	;	anise-seeds	and
	ginger,	in	powder,	each	2	ounces;	treacle,	4
	ounces.
	Let	this	be	given	in	the	same	manner	as	the
	preceding.
	In	most	cases	these	drinks	will	be	sufficient	to
	purge	a	full-grown	animal	of	this	kind.	By	strict
	attention	to	the	above	method	of	application,	a
	fever	may	be	prevented,	and	the	animal	speedily
	restored.
	If	the	fever	continue,	after	the	intestines	have
	been	evacuated	(which	is	seldom	the	case),	it	will
	be	proper	to	take	some	blood	from	the	animal,	and
	the	quantity	must	be	regulated	according	to	the
	disease	and	habit	of	body.
	To	cure	the	Yellows	or	Jaundice	in	Neat	Cattle.
	As	soon	as	the	disease	makes	its	first	appear-
	ance,	it	may,	for	the	most	part,	be	removed	by	ad-
	ministering	the	following	drink	:
	Reduce	to	powder	cummin-seeds,	anise-seeds,
	and	turmeric	root,	each	2	ounces	;	grains	of	para-
	dise,	and	salt	of	tartar,	each	1	ounce.
	Now	slice	1	ounce	of	Castile	soap,	and	mix	it
	with	2	ounces	of	treacle	;	put	the	whole	into	a
	pitcher,	then	pour	a	quart	of	boiling	ale	upon	the
	ingredients,	and	cover	them	down	till	new-milk
	warm,	then	give	the	drink.	It	will	often	be	pro-
	per	to	repeat	this,	two	or	three	times,	every	other
	day,	or	oftener	if	required.	If	the	beast	be	in	good
	condition,	take	away	from	two	to	three	quarts	of
	blood	;	but	the	animal	should	not	be	turned	out
	after	bleeding	that	day,	nor	at	night,	but	the
	morning	following	it	may	go	to	its	pasture	as
	usual.	After	this	has	had	the	desired	effect,	let
	the	following	be	given	:
	Take	of	balsam	copaiva,	1	ounce;	salt	of	tartar,
	1	ounce;	Castile	soap,	2	ounces.	Beat	them	to-
	gether	in	a	marble	mortar;	and	add	of	valerian
	root,	in	powder,	2	ounces;	ginger	root	and	Peruvian
	bark,	in	powder,	each	1	ounce;	treacle,	2	ounces.
	Mix	for	one	drink.
	Let	this	drink	be	given	in	a	quart	of	warm	gruel,
	and	repeated	if	necessary	every	other	day.	It
	will	be	proper	to	keep	the	body	sufficiently	open
	through	every	stage	of	the	disease	;	for	if	costive-
	ness	be	permitted,	the	fever	will	increase,	and	if
	not	timely	removed,	the	disorder	will	terminate
	fatally.
	Frenzy,	or	Inflammation	of	the	Brain,
	Is	sometimes	occasioned	by	wounds	or	contu-
	sions	in	the	head,	that	are	attended	with	violent
	inflammations	of	the	vessels,	and	if	not	speedily
	relieved,	may	terminate	in	a	gangrene	or	a	morti-
	fication,	which	is	very	often	the	case,	and	that	in	a
	few	days.
	Method	of	Cure.
	In	the	cure	of	this	disease,	the	following	method
	must	be	attended	to	:	First	lessen	the	quantity	of
	blood	by	bleeding,	which	may	be	repeated	if	re-
	quired,	and	by	which	the	great	efflux	of	blood
	upon	the	temporal	arteries	will	be	lessened	and
	much	retarded.	The	following	purgative	drink


AGES	OF	ANIMALS.
	121
	will	be	found	suitable	for	this	disease,	and	like-
	wise	for	most	fevers	of	an	inflammatory	nature.
	Take	of	Glauber	salts,	1	pound	;	tartarized	an-
	timony,	1	drachm;	camphor,	2	drachms;	treacle,
	4	ounces.
	Mix,	and	put	the	whole	into	a	pitcher,	and	pour
	3	pints	of	boiling	water	upon	them.
	When	new-milk	warm	add	laudanum,	half	an
	ounce,	and	give	it	all	for	one	dose.
	This	drink	will	in	general	operate	briskly	in	the
	space	of	20	or	24	hours	;	if	not,	let	one	half	of	the
	quantity	be	given	to	the	beast	every	night	and
	morning,	until	the	desired	effect	be	obtained.
	To	cure	Hoven	or	Blown	in	Cattle.
	This	complaint	is	in	general	occasioned	by	the
	animal	feeding	for	a	considerable	time	upon	rich
	succulent	food,	so	that	the	stomach	becomes	over-
	charged,	and	they,	through	their	greediness	to	eat,
	forget	to	lie	down	to	ruminate	or	chew	their	cud.
	Thus	the	paunch	or	first	stomach	is	rendered	in-
	capable	of	expelling	its	contents	;	a	concoction	and
	fermentation	take	place	in	the	stomach,	by	which
	a	large	quantity	of	confined	air	is	formed	in	the
	part	that	extends	nearly	to	the	anus,	and	for	want
	of	vent	at	that	part,	causes	the	animal	to	swell
	even	to	a	state	of	suffocation,	or	a	rupture	of	some
	part	of	the	stomach	or	intestines	ensues.	As	sud-
	den	death	is	the	consequence	of	this;	the	greatest
	caution	is	necessary	in	turning	cattle	into	a	fresh
	pasture,	if	the	bite	of	grass	be	considerable;	nor
	should	they	be	suffered	to	stop	too	long	at	a	time
	in	such	pastures	before	they	are	removed	into	a
	fold	yard,	or	some	close	where	there	is	but	little
	to	eat,	in	order	that	the	organs	of	rumination	and
	digestion	may	have	time	to	discharge	their	func-
	tions.
	If	this	be	attended	to	several	times,	it	will	take
	away	that	greediness	of	disposition,	and	prevent
	this	distressing	complaint.
	Treatment.
	As	soon	as	the	beast	is	discovered	to	be	either
	hoven	or	blown,	by	eating	too	great	a	quantity	of
	succulent	grasses,	let	a	purging	drink	be	given;
	this	will,	for	the	most	part,	check	fermentation	in
	the	stomach,	and	in	a	very	short	time	force	a	pas-
	sage	through	the	intestines.
	Paunching.
	This	is	a	method	frequently	resorted	to	in	dan-
	gerous	cases.	The	operation	is	performed	in	the
	following	manner	:	Take	a	sharp	penknife	and
	gently	introduce	it	into	the	paunch	between	the
	haunch	bone	and	the	last	rib	on	the	left	side.	This
	will	instantly	give	vent	to	a	large	quantity	of	fetid
	air;	a	small	tube	of	a	sufficient	length	may	then
	be	introduced	into	the	wound,	and	remain	until
	the	air	is	sufficiently	evacuated	;	afterwards,	take
	out	the	tube,	and	lay	a	pitch	plaster	over	the	ori-
	fice.	Wounds	of	this	kind	are	seldom	attended
	with	danger	;	where	it	has	arisen,	it	has	been	oc-
	casioned	by	the	injudicious	operator	introducing
	his	knife	into	a	wrong	part.	After	the	wind	is	ex-
	pelled,	and	the	body	has	been	reduced	to	its	na-
	tural	state,	give	an	opiate	drink.
	To	cure	Swimming	in	the	Head.
	This	disease	mostly	attacks	animals	that	have
	been	kept	in	a	state	of	poverty	and	starvation	du-
	ring	the	winter	season	;	and	which	have	in	the
	spring	of	the	year	been	admitted	into	a	fertile	pas-
	ture;	hence	is	produced	a	redundancy	of	blood
	and	other	fluids,	pressing	upon	the	contracted	ves-
	sels,	while	the	animal	economy,	on	the	other	hand,
	is	using	its	utmost	endeavor	to	restore	reduced	na-
	ture	to	its	original	state.	If	it	be	not	checked	in
	its	infancy	by	bleeding,	evacuating,	etc.,	inflam-
	mation	in	all	probability	must	take	place;	in	which
	case	the	beast	is	attended	with	all	the	symptoms
	of	one	that	is	raving	mad.
	The	cure	must	first	be	attempted	by	taking	from
	two	to	three	or	four	quarts	of	blood	from	the	ani-
	mal,	according	to	size	and	strength	;	two	or	three
	hours	after,	give	a	purging	drink.
	Purging	is	generally	necessary	in	this	disease.
	Age	of	Cattle,	etc.
	The	age	of	the	ox	or	cow	is	told	chiefly	by	the
	teeth,	and	less	perfectly	by	the	horns.	The	tem-
	porary	teeth	are	in	part	through	at	birth,	and	all
	the	incisors	are	through	in	twenty	days;	the	first,
	second	and	third	pairs	of	temporary	molars	are
	through	in	thirty	days;	the	teeth	have	grown
	large	enough	to	touch	each	other	by	the	sixth
	month	:	they	gradually	wear	and	fall	in	eighteen
	months;	the	fourth	permanent	molars	are	through
	at	the	fourth	month;	the	fifth	at	the	fifteenth;
	the	sixth	at	two	years.	The	temporary	teeth	be-
	gin	to	fall	at	twenty-one	months,	and	are	entirely
	replaced	by	the	thirty-ninth	to	the	forty-fifth
	month.	The	development	is	quite	complete	at
	from	five	to	six	years.	At	that	time	the	border	of
	the	incisors	has	been	worn	away	a	little	below	the
	level	of	the	grinders.	At	six	years,	the	first	grind-
	ers	are	beginning	to	wear,	and	are	on	a	level	with
	the	incisors.	At	eight	years,	the	wear	of	the	first
	grinders	is	very	apparent.	At	ten	or	eleven	years,
	used	surfaces	of	the	teeth	begin	to	bear	a	square
	mark	surrounded	by	a	white	line	;	and	this	is	pro-
	nounced	on	all	the	teeth	by	the	twelfth	year;	be-
	tween	the	twelfth	and	the	fourteenth	year	this
	mark	takes	a	round	form.	The	rings	on	the	horns
	are	less	useful	as	guides.	At	ten	or	twelve	months
	the	first	ring	appears	;	at	twenty	months	to	two
	years	the	second;	at	thirty	to	thirty-two	months
	the	third	ring;	at	forty	to	forty-six	months	the
	fourth	ring	;	at	fifty-four	to	sixty	months	the	fifth
	ring,	and	so	on.	But,	at	the	filth	year,	the	three
	first	rings	are	indistinguishable,	and	at	the	eighth
	year	all	the	rings.	Besides,	the	dealers	file	the
	horns.
	Age	of	the	Sheep.
	In	the	sheep,	the	temporary	teeth	begin	to	ap-
	pear	in	the	first	week,	and	fill	the	mouth	at	three
	months	;	they	are	gradually	worn,	and	fall	at	about
	fifteen	or	eighteen	months.	The	fourth	permanent
	grinders	appear	at	three	months,	and	the	fifth	pair
	at	twenty	to	twenty-seven	months.	A	common
	rule	is,	"	two	broad	teeth	every	year."	The	wear
	of	the	teeth	begins	to	be	marked	about	six	years.
	Age	of	the	Pig.
	The	age	of	the	pig	is	known	up	to	three	years
	by	the	teeth;	after	that	there	is	no	certainty.
	The	temporary	teeth	are	complete	in	three	or	four
	months;	about	the	sixth	month	the	premolars	be-
	tween	the	tusks	and	the	first	pair	of	molars	ap-
	pear;	in	six	to	ten	months	tbe	tusks	and	posterior
	incisors	are	replaced;	in	twelve	months	to	two
	years	the	other	incisors;	the	fourth	permanent
	molars	appear	at	sixth	months;	the	fifth	pair	at
	ten	months	;	and	the	sixth	and	last	at	eighteen
	months.


136
	MEDICIXE.
	Teins.	It	is,	also,	more	painful,	the	skin	being
	sometimes	discolored	and	puckered.	The	whole
	tumor	is	particularly	heavy,	and	at	last	breaks
	into	a	malignant	ulcer,	or	sore,	whose	edges	are
	raised,	ragged,	uneven,	and	curl	over	like	the
	leaves	of	a	fl..wer	;	white	streaks	or	bands	cross	it
	from	the	centre	to	the	circumference.	Acute	and
	darting	pains	accompany	both	this	and	the	pre-
	ceding	stage	of	the	disease.
	Treatment.	There	is	but	one	remedy	that	can
	be	depended	on	for	the	cure	of	this	painful	and
	inveterate	complaint,	and	even	that	should	be	re-
	sorted	to	early,	in	order	to	ensure	success.	All
	the	diseased	parts	must	be	cut	out.	Arsenic,	cor-
	rosive	sublimate,	phosphate	of	iron,	and	a	thou-
	sand	other	articles	have	been	recommended,	both
	externally	and	internally,	but	without	any	effec-
	tual	advantage.	To	relieve	the	pain,	opium	may
	be	taken	in	large	doses.	The	sore	should	be	de-
	fended	from	the	air,	by	some	mild	ointment.
	Powdered	chalk,	scraped	carrots,	fresh	hemlock
	leaves	and	powdered	charcoal	may	be	used	for	the
	same	purpose.
	Goitre.
	Symptoms.	A	tumor	in	the	fore	part	of	the
	throat,	seated	in	a	gland	close	to	the	projection
	called	"Adam's	apple."
	Treatment.	Goitre	is	sometimes	incurable.
	When	taken	at	the	very	beginning	of	the	com-
	plaint,	however,	and	in	young	persons,	it	is	said
	to	have	been	dispersed	by	a	course	of	iodine	joined
	to	frictions	of	the	part,	with	strong	mercurial	oint-
	ment.	As	it	seldom	causes	any	inconvenience,
	and	is	always	unattended	by	pain,	it	is	not	a	mat-
	ter	of	much	consequence.	The	inhabitants	of	the
	Alps	consider	it	a	mark	of	beauty,	and	there	are
	some	cantons	where	every	man,	woman	and	child
	is	adorned	with	a	tumor	of	this	nature,	of	which
	they	would	feel	very	sorry	to	be	deprived.	It
	aannot	be	cut	out,	on	account	of	the	great	num-
	ber	of	blood-vessels	of	which	it	is	composed.
	Fainting.
	Causes.	Sudden	and	violent	emotions	of	the
	mind;	bleeding;	diseases	of	the	heart	and	its
	great	vessels.
	Treatment.	Lay	the	person	on	his	back,	take
	off	his	cravat,	then	open	the	doors	and	windows,
	and	sprinkle	cold	water	in	his	face.	Smelling
	salts	may	be	held	to	his	nose.
	Apoplexy.
	Symptoms.	Falling	without	sense	or	motion,
	profound	sleep	;	face	livid	or	flushed	;	eyes	wide
	open	or	half	closed,	and	immovable	;	breathing
	slow,	laboring,	and	irregular;	pulse	full	and	slow.
	Causes.	A	rushing	of	blood	to	the	head,	ex-
	cessive	fat	in	persons	with	a	short	neck,	gluttony,
	violent	exercise,	intense	heat,	anger,	hearty	meat
	suppers,	blows	on	the	head,	intoxication,	etc.,	etc.
	Treatment.	If	the	pulse	remains	full,	the	face
	flushed,	etc.,	take	away	twenty	ounces	or	more	of
	blood	on	the	spot,	remove	the	cravat,	unbutton
	the	shirt-collar,	and	place	the	patient	in	bed,	with
	his	head	and	shoulders	a	little	elevated.	The
	windows	and	doors	must	be	thrown	open,	and	no
	more	persons	than	are	necessary,	be	allowed	to	re-
	main	in	the	room.	The	head	is	to	be	shaved	and
	ci'pped,	a	blister	applied	to	the	back	of	the	neck
	and	the	head,	and	mustard	poultices	to	the	feet.
	An	active	purgative	should	always	be	adminis-
	tered	as	soon	as	the	patient	is	bled,	and	its	opera-
	tion	assisted	by	repeated	clysters.	If	the	patient
	cannot	swallow	pills,	try	liquids,	if	neither,	have
	recourse	to	a	strong	purgative	clyster.	If,	by
	these	means,	the	breathing	is	not	easier,	and	the
	pulse	softer,	bleed	again,	or	cup	the	back	of	the
	neck.
	If,	however,	the	patient	is	old	and	infirm,	and
	the	attack	has	come	on	more	gradually,	if	the
	pulse	is	weak,	and	the	face	pale,	bleed	moderately
	or	not	at	all,	and	give	immediately	a	warm	pur-
	gative,	npply	the	blisters,	etc.	If	it	arises	from
	swallowing	vegetable	poisons,	give	an	active
	emetic,	as	thirty	grains	of	white	vitriol,	and	act	as
	directed	in	cases	of	similar	accidents.	In	this
	second	kind	of	apoplexy,	stimulants,	as	harts-
	horn	to	the	nose,	etc.,	may	be	used	;	in	the	first
	they	are	very	injurious,	and	should	never	be	em-
	ployed.
	Stroke	of	the	Sun.
	This	proceeds	from	exposure	to	the	sun's	rays,
	and	exhibits	the	same	symptoms	as	apoplexy,
	commencing	with	vertigo,	loss	of	sight,	ringing	in
	the	ears,	etc.,	and	must	be	treated	by	cupping	or
	bleeding,	and	in	every	other	respect	as	directed
	for	apoplexy.	Extreme	heat	sometimes,	however,
	produces	a	state	of	prostration	without	head	symp-
	toms	;	for	which	cold	affusion	and	rest	are	the
	best	remedies.
	Epilepsy.
	Symptoms.	A	fit,	in	which	the	patient	falls	to
	the	ground	in	a	convulsion	;	the	eyes	are	distorted
	and	turned	up,	hands	clenched,	foaming	at	the
	mouth,	convulsions,	the	whole	ending	in	a	deep
	sleep.
	Treatment.	Keep	the	patient	from	hurting	him-
	self,	by	holding	gently	his	hands,	legs,	and	particu-
	larly	his	head,	which	he	is	apt	to	dash	violently
	against	the	ground,	or	surrounding	objects.	A
	piece	of	soft	wood	should	be	placed	between	his
	teeth,	to	prevent	his	tongue	from	being	bitten.
	This	is,	in	general,	all	that	can	be	done	during
	the	fit.	If,	however,	there	are	symptoms	of	great
	determination	of	blood	to	the	head,	bleeding
	should	not	be	neglected.	White	vitriol,	the	mis-
	tletoe,	carbonate	of	iron,	etc.,	etc.,	have	been	re-
	commended	and	tried	for	the	cure	of	this	com-
	plaint,	but	in	vain.
	The	valerian	ate	of	zinc	may,	however,	be	tried.
	It	is	taken	in	pills	of	a	grain	each,	one	three
	times	a	day,	gradually	increasing	this	dose	to
	five	at	a	time.	To	reap	any	benefit	from	this
	medicine,	it	is	necessary	to	persevere	in	it	for
	months.	If	it	fails,	iron	or	some	other	tonic	may
	be	resorted	to.	Large	doses	of	spirits	of	turpen-
	tine	are	said	to	have	afforded	relief.	The	diet,	in
	all	cases,	should	be	vegetable,	and	if	symptoms
	of	fulness	of	blood	be	present,	it	will	be	proper	to
	bleed.	Persons	subject	to	these	fits,	should	never
	be	left	alone,	or	ride	on	horseback,	for	obvious
	reasons.	It	should	be	known	that	sexual	excesses
	often	produce	or	keep	up	this	complaint.
	Palsy.
	Symptoms.	A	partial	or	complete	loss	of	the
	powers	of	motion,	and	the	sensibility	of	particu-
	lar	parts	of	the	body;	the	pulse	soft	and	slow.
	Treatment.	In	a	young	and	robust	person,	it
	may	be	proper	to	bleed,	and	give	an	active	pur-
	gative.	In	old	people,	or	where	the	powers	of
	the	body	are	much	weakened,	warm	laxative
	medicines,	with	stimulating	applications,	as	the
	flesh-brush,	blisters,	mustard	poultices,	and	rub-
	bing	the	spine	with	the	volatile	liniment,	form	the
	best	plan	of	treatment.	If	it	affect	different	parts
	of	the	body	at	once,	horseradish,	mustard,	and
	Cayenne	pepper	should	be	used	liberally,	as	they
	are	prepared	for	table.	If	a	swelling	or	tumor	be
	found	on	the	back-bone,	or	any	injury	has	been
	done	it,	which	may	have	caused	the	disease,	caus-
	tic	issues	may	be	placed	on	each	side	of	it,	and	as
	near	the	injured	part	as	possible.	The	diet	should
	be	light	and	nourishing.	The	warm	bath	must
	not	be	neglected.


ULCERS,	ACCIDENTS.
	143
	Treatment.	Confine	the	patient	to	bed,	purge
	him	occasionally,	let	his	diet	be	low,	and	apply	a
	soft	bread	and	milk	or	linseed	poultice	to	the
	ulcer.	When	healthy	yellow	matter	is	formed,
	omit	the	poultice,	keep	the	sore	very	clean,	and
	apply	a	plaster	of	simple	ointment.
	Fungous	Ulcers.
	Symptoms.	The	presence	of	large	round	gran-
	ulations,	rising	above	the	level	of	the	adjoining
	parts,	or	what	is	commonly	called	proud	flesh,
	marks	this	species	of	ulcer.
	Treatment.	Sprinkle	red	precipitate	over	the
	proud	flesh,	or	touch	it	with	lunar	caustic,	apply
	dressings	of	simple	cerate	to	the	sore,	and	pass	a
	bandage	tightly	over	the	whole.	Burnt	alum	and
	blue	vitriol	may	also	be	used	to	destroy	the	proud
	flesh.	Pressure	by	adhesive	plaster	or	a	bandage
	will	often	succeed	when	all	other	means	fail.
	Slouyhing	Ulcer.
	Symptoms.	The	doath	of	parts	of	nn	ulcer
	which	mortify	and	fall	off,	generally	attended	by
	fever	and	pain.
	Treatment.	The	diet	should	be	generous,	laud-
	anum	must	be	taken	to	relieve	pain,	and	bark,
	wine,	porter,	etc.,	to	strengthen	the	system.	The
	carrot	poultice	is	the	best	local	application.	TMfe
	sore	may	also	be	washed	with	a	solution	of	bro-
	mine,	or	of	nitric	acid,	fifty	drops	to	the	pint	of
	water.	When	the	dead	portions	have	all	fallen	off,
	treat	it	as	a	simple	ulcer,	paying	attention,	how-
	ever,	to	the	state	of	the	system.
	Indolent	Ulcer.
	Symptoms.	The	edges	of	the	skin	are	thick,
	raised,	smooth	and	shining.	The	points	of	new
	flesh	are	glossy,	and	the	appearance	of	the	whole
	ulcer	is	that	of	an	old	one	in	which	the	healing
	process	is	at	a	stand.
	Treatment.	Touch	the	whole	surface,	sides	and
	edges	of	the	sore	with	caustic,	blue	vitriol,	or	pow-
	der	it	with	Spanish	flies	or	red	precipitate,	and
	endeavor	in	this	way	to	rouse	the	parts	to	action.
	If	one	article	fails,	try	.another.	Strips	of	stick-
	ing	plaster	may	be	passed	over	the	ulcer,	about
	an	inch	apart,	so	as	to	draw	its	edges	nearer	to-
	gether,	and	a	long	bandage	be	applied	over	the
	whole.
	Carious	Ulcer.
	Symptoms.	Ulcers	situated	over	or	near	cari-
	ous	(or	dead)	bones,	are	thereby	prevented	from
	healing;	they	frequently	penetrate	deep	into	ihe
	parts,	forming	a	canal	with	hard	and	indolent
	sides,	that	discharges	an	offensive,	unhealthy
	matter.
	Treatment.	Keep	the	sore	clean,	repress	any
	proud	flesh	that	may	arise,	and	pay	attention	to
	the	general	health	of	the	patient,	taking	care	that
	his	strength	be	kept	up,	if	necessary,	by	wine,
	bark,	porter,	etc.,	etc.	The	ulcer	will	not	heal
	until	all	the	pieces	of	dead	bone	are	thrown	off.
	This	process	sometimes	lasts	for	years,	in	which
	case	patience	is	the	only	remedy	and	nature	the
	best	physician.
	Cases	of	ulceration	frequently	occur,	proceeding
	from	various	causes,	whose	ravages	seem	to	bid
	defiance	to	medical	power.	In	all	cases	of	ulcera-
	tion,	too	much	stress	cannot	be	laid	upon	the
	necessity	of	keeping	the	parts	clean.
	OP	ACCIDENTS.
	If,	in	consequence	of	a	broken	bone	or	other
	injury,	the	patient	is	unable	to	walk,	take	a	door
	from	its	hingea,	lay	him	carefully	on	it,	and	have
	him	carried	by	assistants	to	the	nearest	house.
	If	no	door	or	sofa	can	be	procured,	two	boards,
	sufficiently	long	and	broad,	should	be	nailed	to
	two	cross	pieces,	the	ends	of	which	must	project
	about	a	foot,	so	as	to	form	handles.	If	in	the
	woods,	or	where	no	boards	can	be	procured,	a
	litter	may	be	formed	from	the	branches	of	trees.
	In	this	way	a	hand-barrow	may	be	constructed	in
	a	few	minutes,	on	which	the	sufferer	may	be	pro-
	perly	carried.
	If	he	has	been	wounded	and	bleeds,	the	bleed-
	ing	must	be	stopped	before	he	is	removed.
	Having	reached	a	house,	lay	him	on	a	bed,	and
	undress	him	with	care	and	gentleness.	If	any
	difficulty	arises	in	getting	off	his	coat	or	panta-
	loons,	rip	up	the	seams	rather	than	use	force.
	This	being	done,	proceed	to	ascertain	the	nature
	of	tho	injury.
	This	may	be	either	simple	or	compound	;	that
	is,	it	may	be	a	contusion	or	bruise,	a	wound,
	fracture,	or	dislocation,	or	it	may	be	two	or	all	of
	them	united	in	one	or	several	parts.
	A	contusion	is	the	necessary	consequence	of
	every	blow,	and	is	known	by	the	swelling	and
	discoloration	of	the	skin.
	Wounds	are	self-evident.
	Fractures	are	known	by	the	sudden	and	severe
	pain,	by	the	misshapen	appearance	of	the	limb,
	sometimes	by	its	being	shortened,	by	the	patient
	being	unable	to	move	it	without	excruciating	pain,
	but	most	certainly,	by	grasping	the	limb	above	and
	below	the	spnt	where	the	fracture	is	supposed	to
	exist,	and	twisting	it	different	ways,	when	a	grating
	will	be	felt,	occasioned	by	the	broken	ends	of	the
	bone	rubbing	against	each	other.	If	the	swelling,
	however,	is	very	great,	this	experiment	should	not
	be	made	until	it	is	reduced.-
	Dislocations,	or	bones	being	out	of	joint,	are
	known	by	the	deformity	of	the	joint	when	com-
	pared	with	its	fellow,	by	the	pain	and	inability	to
	move	the	limb,	by	its	being	longer	or	shorter	tLan
	usual,	and	by	the	impossibility	of	moving	it	in
	particular	directions.
	Of	Sprains.
	Plunge	the	part	sprained	into	very	cold	water,
	and	hold	it	there	as	long	at	a	time	as	you	can	bear
	it	for	several	hours	then	rub	it	well	with	cam-
	phorated	spirits.	If	the	accident	has	happened	to
	a	joint,	as	in	the	ancle,	and	it	remains	weak,	pour
	cold	water	on	it	from	the	spout	of	a	tea-kettle,	held
	at	a	distance,	several	times	in	the	day.
	Of	Contusions.
	If	slight,	bathe	the	part	frequently	with	cold
	vinegar	and	water	for	a	few	hours,	and	then	rub	it
	well	with	brandy,	or	spirits	of	any	kind.	Should
	it	be	very	great,	or	so	as	to	affect	the	whole
	body,	which	may	be	known	by	a	general	soreness,
	bleed	and	purge	the	patient,	and	confine	him	to	a
	diet	of	rice-water,	lemonade,	panada,	etc.	If	fever
	comes	on,	repeat	the	purging,	etc.	In	all	cases	of
	this	nature,	be	sure	the	water	is	regularly	evacu-
	ated,	for	it	sometimes	happens	that	in	consequence
	of	the	nerves	of	the	bladder	being	palsied	by	the
	blow,	the	patient	feels	no	desire	to	pass	it,	though
	the	bladder	be	full.	If	a	suppression	ensues,	pass
	a	catheter,	if	possible,	or	procure	assistance	for
	that	purpose.	The	most	serious	effects,	however,
	resulting	from	contusion,	are	when	the	blow	is
	applied	to	the	head,	producing	either	concussion
	or	compression	of	the	brain.
	Concussion	of	the	Brain.
	Symptoms.	The	patient	is	stunned,	his	breath-
	ing	slow,	drowsiness,	stupidity,	the	puprl	of	the
	eye	rather	contracted,	vomiting.	After	a	time	he
	recovers.
	Treatment.	Apply	cloths	dipped	in	cold	vine-
	gar	and	water	to	his	heal,	and	when	the	stupor
	is	gone	and	the	pulse	rises,	bleed	him,	and	open
	his	bowels	with	Epsom	salts.	He	should	be	con-